A couple of caveats:

I was looking to do the cleanest installation possible.

Also, to retain as much of the stock wiring as possible in order to

allow me to pop back in the original lights in case of an inspection

situation. 

I purchased the optional wiring harness from ND in order to make the job

easier.  Wiring relays is actually very, very easy, but I have to admit,

while the ND harness kit is expensive (but not so much when you consider

that it includes all fuses, relays, and the 80/100W bulbs) it really is

very, very well put together.

The way the euro lights work vs. stock:

whereas STOCK (S) you have:

• Parking lights (on the inner portion)

in EURO (E) you have:

• city lights (small, low wattage bulbs in the main housing)

• (S) 55W Low Beam

• (E) 55W, 80W, etc.

• (S) 65W High Beam in main housing

• (E) 100W High Beam in main housing
  

      AND 100W on inner portion

So, in my configuration, I now have city lights instead of parking

lights, 55W * 2 for low beam, and (100W + 100W) *2 for high beam.  Yes,

that is 400W on high beam!  I have the bulbs for 80W * 2 for low beam

but really want to aim them correctly before really damaging the retinas

of oncoming drivers!

The installation:

1. remove (-) terminal from battery

   I would recommend removing the battery altogether (it makes it much

   easier to work around.)

2. Remove front grill

3. Remove both headlights

   
   2 screws along top

   
   1 screw down hole - in center, back about 3" from lens

4. Remove plug from main bulb and parking light

5. Follow parking bulb wires back to where there is a connector.

   I used another set of wires (from a wrecked C) to cut so that when it

   comes time to replace, I could just unplug the old harness and simply

   plug the parking lights back in.

6. Take wires from the wrecked C and cut off bulb housing, strip

   the black wire (the brown is for ground) and attach to the harness where

   the city lights go (in this case, grey)  I highly suggest soldering the

   connections, wrapping securely in electrical tape, and then using

   zip-ties to secure the tape.
   

   Repeat for the other side.  Then plug the new harness where the old ones

   used to plug into.

7. On the driver's side, carefully strip the wires on the main

   headlight harness.  ~2" from the end of the connector, carefully strip a

   small amount (1/4") of insulation from each wire (white w/ black stripe

   -  high beam) and yellow w/ black stripe - low beam) Attach the high

   beam side to the white wire and the low beam side to the low beam.

   Again, carefully solder, wire, and secure.

8. For the harness for the passenger side lights, I ran the harness

   along the front of the radiator support.  I mounted the plate that the

   relays are mounted to directly behind where the driver's side headlight

   is (in between the headlight and the battery) - attached with two

   stainless screws into predrilled holes.  I ran the power (+) lead along

   the harness that runs under the battery.  I ran the negative/ground lead

   along the side. (along the front fender towards the power steering

   resevoir)

9. Attach the connector to the back of each light and install the

   lights.  The lights attach in exactly the same way as the stock ones.

   (3 screws per side total)  I had some trouble with the bottom tongue

   fitting into the groove - I must lack the touch - it eventually fit with

   no problem.

10. On mine, it hit the top of the relays and would no longer easily snap

    into the holder.  I bent mine slightly to clear and have had no problems

    with it.  (Note, if you force the rod to clip into the holder, the

    upward pressure that it causes on the hood can keep the hood from

    opening when pulling on the hood release!)

11. Dazzle (no - blind!) your friends with 400W of total high beam - and

    that is still excluding the fog/driving lights!

Conclusions

It is always nice to see where you've been in your life.  It is even

better to see where you are going.

The wiring harness + 80/100 bulbs is expensive but really makes the job

a snap. 
Note:  if you plan on running lower wattage bulbs, the stock

harness should do just fine. However, if you do plan on running higher

wattage (like the 80w/100w bulbs) it is imperative that you run the

relays...

(the smell of buring wires and insulation is a really nasty smell - not

to mention the strain on the stock relays and the switch!)

If you plan on (or have to for inspection reasons) keeping the stock

headlights handy and need a quick backtrack, the above installation

procedure should help you.  I can probably return to the stock light

configuration in ~ 10 minutes or so.

For me to return to stock config (at least for inspection) I just remove

the euros, take the stock lights, plug in the connectors for the main

lights (which I did NOT cut off), and unplug the harness for the parking

lights and replace with my old wires.  That is it!

The relay config is also really easy.  Essentially, your headlight

switch acts as a trigger for the relays.

When you turn on your parking lights, the wires to the parking lights

are powered.  These directly power the city lights.

When you turn on the low beams, the voltage to the driver's side

headlight kicks the relay for the low beams, which then allow power

directly from the battery (through a 30A fuse) to go to both low beams.

When you go to high beams, the voltage to the driver's side high beam

kicks a second relay (for the high beams), which then allows power from

the battery (through a 2nd 30A fuse) to go the the high beams.

Total costs

Lights (New Dimensions)	$459.95
Harness (also ND)	$119.95 (includes 80/100 bulbs, etc.)

Total time

Probably ~1 hour or so.  Give or take 30 minutes depending on how anal

you are about wiring/soldering/taping/etc.  :)

Impressions

The real deal when it comes to lights.  The 400W total on highbeams is a

real delight on twisty, dark roads.  The cut off pattern for the euro

lights is absolutely crisp on the low beams.  Properly aimed, there is

no glare, just a nice, crisp light.  Expensive but definitely worth it -

even just for the beam pattern.

Notes

• All of the euro lights sold in the US are not legal for public roads,

  blah blah blah.  Considering that 50% of the driving public believes

  that high beams are for fog;  that lights should be aimed directly at

  opposing traffic, the sky above, or at the ground directly below the

  radiator; or that lights should be optional even in pitch darkness - I

  say - HUMBUG.  My new lights do not blind and are exceedingly good at

  illuminating the road in front of my onrushing car.  Lucky is the person

  I avoid because I can see them stumbling in the road.

• All of the Euro lights currently sold in the states are for the G60

  only.  They fit the SLC/VR6 cars without modifications - however, they

  sit in slightly and do not fit 100% flush with the front of the car.

  To be honest, if someone hadn't mentioned it, I would have never

  noticed.

• If you decide to keep the stock light connectors, I would suggest

  protecting the now exposed part of the connector.  Either some tape in

  conjunction with some dielectric grease, or perhaps a small plastic bag

  of some sort.  If left exposed, they could rust up and eventually cause

  corrosion in the harness itself.