The European version of the Corrados have the same type of bright rear

fog lights you occasionally see the newer Volvos and M-B

blinding people behind them with.

This rear fog light or lights are to be used under adverse weather

conditions such as fog, heavy snow or rain, and provides a significant

protection against rear end crashes.

Most US versions of the Corrados (G60 & SLC) share the same

tail light assemblies and fog light switches with their European

counterparts.

The only problem is that they are not hooked up.

This procedure explains how to upgrade your car:

Is your car eligible?

Check list:

1. Does your fog light switch have 2 "ON" position, the second

   one seemingly not doing anything? If yes, good. If not, you can buy the buy

   the right switch, but you'll have to do some more rewiring that I

   will not cover here.

2. The rear fog lights are in the same assembly as the rear marker

   lights (the ones that come on when you have the lights on) mounted

   on the hatch (NOT on the body with the brake lights).

   Do you see a second reflector w/o bulb next to the tail light

   marker lights. It also has a red lens.

3. Good so far? Now open up the black panel that covers the hatch

   lights and wing control. The panel is held by "bayonet" screws

   that require a 1/4-1/2 turn with a Phillips #2 screw driver

   to loosen. Carefully pull the plastic cover away. It's rather

   delicate.
   

   Look at the light socket assembly for the tail light markers after

   you remove one (push in the snaps and pull). It should

   have one empty slot where the rear fog light should go. The

   rear fog light lens is covered with a serated round blank.

   It looks a bit like a "*".

If you find all of these, you can upgrade you car.

This procedure is technically not difficult, but requires some

patience, taking apart several interior panels, seats and carpet.

Unless you are very dedicated, I'd combine this procedure with

another upgrade opportunity.

I did my first upgrade in my 90 G60 when I installed my alarm system and

Dynamat sound deadening material: if you take half the car appart, you

may as well do everything at once. Next I also upgraded our 92 SLC.

In the above cars, both had the necessary equipment on both ends

(switch and tail light assemblies) but did not have the wires

to go in between them. Bummer!

TOOLS:

Wire crimping tool

Several female spade connectors (std size)

10 meters 14 or 16 guage multi strand wire (I went with the thicker wire)

Electric Tape

A bag of small (black) tie wraps

Soldering Iron (optional) or a Scotch Lock

Stanley knife

Regular tools (screwdrivers, nut-socket set)

PROCEDURE

1. Take the rear platic cover of the rear deck (1/4 turn on the screws)

2. Punch or cut the "*" blanks from the rear fog light reflectors

   (I did both sides, though some prefere to have only the left

   light installed like in Europe).
   

3. Install wire from right to left light fog light after you figure out

   which of the connectors of the tail light assembly to use.

4. Pull wire from the left upper rubber accordion thingy on top of the hatch

   through the left side of the hatch.
   

   I just used a stiff 14 awg wire to push it through.

   It takes a lot of patience, greasing it up a bit, etc, but eventually

   it will come through. If you have an electrician wire puller, that may help.

   You may be luckier from starting at the bottom, but I always

   succeeded starting from the top.
   

   Once the wire is through, hook it up to the rear fog lights, install

   the lights and test to see whether it works (you do not want to

   find out you have a brake in the cable once you are done).

   The lamps are just standard single filament 20 Watt bayonet mount

   lamps used for back up lights.
   

   It's the special reflector that makes the seem so bright.

   You can also buy special halogen lamps if you want to have an

   even brighter effect.
   

   Congratulations, the first trickiest part is over.

5. Detatch the left speaker carier, all platic molding and covers from the

   rear side of the car. Just makes sure you find all screws, and things

   should just come off. Some of the molding needs to be carefully

   pulled of because it's snapped on. Go slowly step by step, and

   it's ok to use a blunt instrument to help things to unsnap.

6. Carefully pull on the plastic strip that holds the rear of the

   headliner, and pass the wire sticking out from the accordion through

   the hole and follow the stock wiring harness.

   Note: Use plenty of tie wraps to keep the wire from ratteling.

   You do not have to loosen the rear headliner much because you'll

   have just enough space to get to wire. Also make sure you have

   plenty of wire at this point because you'll be doing a bunch of

   loop-de-loops before you are up front. 10 meters may seem much,

   but you'll be surprised how much you really use.

7. Follow the existing wiring harness as much as you can with your cable

   to the front of the car. The wire will go from the roof down to the

   left hand side of the car towards the rear trunk light, then possibly

   disappear behind some sheet metal panelling, then reappearing, before

   following the lower edge of the trunk.

   In the trunk, leave an extra loop or two of wire in case you ever goof up.

   The wire will continue past the rear left seat. The rear seat

   can be removed by pushing the front of the seat in and then pulling up.

   The wire will then follow the left bottom edge of the car, past the

   front seat towards the fuse box.
   

8. Remove the plastic cover above the driver's foot well, next to

   the fuze box and also the panelling that's below the hood release.

   Pull the wire all the way to the fuse box, securing it every

   couple of feet with tie wraps.
   

9. Now that you are at the fuse box, consult Bentley on what wire you

   need to attach yours to. <I'll look this up soon, but double

   check with your car in case they changed anything>

   The wire you need goes into the fuze box somewhere

   (Connector K, Wire 10 if I remember correctly (?)).

   Once you find it, just strip a bit of insulation with a sharp knife

   from that wire and soldered your new wire to it and insulate with tape.

   You could use a Scotch Lock, but I have not had much luck with them.

   You could also figure out in what location to insert the wire

   in the fuse box (there is indeed an official orifice for it),

   but you'll be happy if you just find the damn wire you need.

   Naturally, you need to test whether the wire you find is the right one

   before soldering. I usually just stick a pin in the wire and

   test it with a VOM by toggeling the switch.

It's not as bad as it sounds, the worst parts are the fishing expedition

and finding your way through the rats nest of wires in the fuze box.

Expect two hours or more of work.

One of the optional enhancements is to hook the rear fog lights through

a diode to the brake lights. Having been rear ended 3 times in the

last couple of years, it is something I am considering.

The diode is needed so that your brake lights won't come on when

you have your rear fog lights on (so you need to orient the

diode's arrow in the right direction in the wiring).

However, I have not tested this yet, and if you are interested

check to see whether your front fog lights won't come on if you

use your brakes.

Copyright Notice (c) -- 1995:

All Rights Reserved

The information contained here is copyrighted by the

author. The right to reproduce this is hereby given, provided it is

copied intact, with the copyright notice inclusive and original

author identified.

However, the author explicitly prohibit selling this document, any

of its parts, or any document which contains parts of this document.

From: HAPPIG@aol.com

I've already wired both my fog lights and the brake lights.

On the 93 VR6s, the place where the wire goes is P 6 in the fuse box.. It's

a grey and blue (if I'm not mistaken) wire. Just strip some insulating and

attach the wire going to the rear fog lights.

Well, here's how I did my brake lights along with my fog lights.

WIRING FOR REAR BRAKE LIGHTS (Assuming you already did Jan's procedures for

the fog lights):

1. Have the wires already wired to the rear fog light housing.

2. Get 2 diodes with the highest value you can find. (I got 3Amp/10000Volts)

   The way the diodes work is the stripe closest to the edge of the

   diode is the way the arrow points; like this:

                          Diode
                   |------------!--|
                   |            >>>>> !    |
 _________|            >>>>> !    |___________
                   |            >>>>> !    |
                   |------------!--|
(Left lead)                              (Right Lead)
        Current flows from left to right
         >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The arrow shows the direction of the current flow (from left to right).

The current can't go from right to left, unless the value of the diode is

loo low.

3) Have the wire go next to the brake light housing in the trunk and nclip

the bulb plate of teh brake housing

4) There are 5 wires going into 4 connections. The brown is he ground. The

one on the other side of the ground is for the signal. The single red wire

is for when you turn on your lights, which makes the bulb glow. The one with

the 2 wires going into the same connection is for the brake lights.

Find the 2 wires and spread some of the insulating to expose the bare

wire, but DO NOT cut the wires because they are so short and hard to put back

together.

5) Connect some of your wire to both wires and seal them good.

6) Connect (soldering is best) the other end of the wire to one of the

diodes. From teh diagram, the wire should be attached on to left lead of the

diode. The current should go from teh brake lights into the diode and out

the other way.

7) Connect the other side of the diode to the wire coming from the fog light

housings.

(ALWAYS ATTACH WIRES WITH ALGATOR CLIPS AND TEST BEFORE

SOLDERING. It will be much easier)

8) WIth the other diode, connect the right lead (according to the diagram)

to the right lead of the other diode. In other words, you will have the both

right leads of each diode attached to the wire leading to the fog light

housing.

9) On the second diode, connect the wire coming from the fuse box to the

left lead.

FUSE BOX________________          DIODE 2
                                              |_____>>>__
                                                                 |
                                                                 |_____ TO
FOG LIGHT HOUSING
                                              |_____>>>__|
BRAKE LIGHT HOUSING______|         DIODE 1

(2 wires)

>>> are the diodes

10) After all work is done, make sure you cover everything with electrical

tape to reduce chances of shroting the whole car.

This works just fine for me.

P.S. When I pres steh brakes with teh fog lights on, it doesn't get any

brighter.

Any other questions regarding this?

Happig

Happig@aol.com