So your window is whistling, leaking and basically being a complete annoyance. You came

to the right place. Investigation into this problem led me to determine that a small

plastic piece in the window regulator assembly broke. Of course, you have to purchase the

entire assembly and spend big bucks to fix a problem caused by a $10 part, right? Not if

you have some time and access to a machine shop.

Getting the regulator assembly out of the door is the most time-consuming part of the

entire ordeal. I recommend having all of the parts listed below ready before starting.

Here is the drawing for the replacement piece (COR-001).

You will need to have a machine shop make it for you, unless you know what you are doing.

1. Lower the window all of the way.
2. Remove the door panel. There are several screws holding the panel to the door, including

   one that is hiding in the speaker area. You will also have to remove the door lock knob.

3. Carefully lift the vapor barrier (plastic sheet) from the bottom. It is held in place by

   some super sticky adhesive, and if you are careful you should be able to simply press it

   back into place when you are finishing up.

4. You will now be able to see that the window is attached to the regulator by two bolts.

   There are also two arms that pivot as the window is raised and lowered. Pull on the bottom

   part of the arms until they pop out of the small plastic wheels.

5. Remove the two bolts holding the window to the regulator.
6. Manually lift the window all of the way up. I used duct tape to hold it up, but you may

   be able to come up with something better.

7. Drill out all of the rivets that hold the regulator to the door.
8. Remove the regulator from the door. This takes some twisting and turning, but it really

   does come out of that hole!

9. At the top of the metal track, you will probably see a cable that has been scratched and

   cut and some remnants of a plastic piece. If you don't see this, you must have another

   problem.

10. Remove all traces of the original plastic piece from the cable and track.
11. Use pliers to open the track up to accept the new piece. Before: /____\   

    After: |____|

12. At the top of the track, there is a rectangular hole. This is where the tab on the back

    of your new plastic piece goes. You will have to put the plastic piece around the cable

    and then pull the piece up until it fits in the hole. It takes a lot of force. I can't

    remember exactly how I did this, but I do remember it being difficult.

13. Bend the track back down around the new piece so that it holds it in place.
14. There are 3 rubber isolators that will have to be replaced because they have the rivet

    body stuck in them. They simply unscrew from the motor body.

15. Put the assembly back into the door.
16. This is the fun part! You have to rivet the assembly back into place. I think I started

    with the motor body and then the track. I used a manual rivet tool I bought at Home Depot

    and was on the verge of breaking because the rivets are so big. Take the rivets with you

    if you buy a tool to make sure they fit in it. If you have access to a powered tool, take

    advantage of it.