European Headlight Install
From: Yosh Hakutani (hakutani@snip.net)
A couple of caveats:
I was looking to do the cleanest installation possible.
Also, to retain as much of the stock wiring as possible in order to
allow me to pop back in the original lights in case of an inspection
situation.
I purchased the optional wiring harness from ND in order to make the job
easier. Wiring relays is actually very, very easy, but I have to admit,
while the ND harness kit is expensive (but not so much when you consider
that it includes all fuses, relays, and the 80/100W bulbs) it really is
very, very well put together.
The way the euro lights work vs. stock:
whereas STOCK (S) you have:-
Parking lights (on the inner portion)
in EURO (E) you have:-
city lights (small, low wattage bulbs in the main housing)
- (S) 55W Low Beam
- (E) 55W, 80W, etc.
- (S) 65W High Beam in main housing
- (E) 100W High Beam in main housing
AND 100W on inner portion
So, in my configuration, I now have city lights instead of parking
lights, 55W * 2 for low beam, and (100W + 100W) *2 for high beam. Yes,
that is 400W on high beam! I have the bulbs for 80W * 2 for low beam
but really want to aim them correctly before really damaging the retinas
of oncoming drivers!
The installation:
- remove (-) terminal from battery
I would recommend removing the battery altogether (it makes it much
easier to work around.)
- Remove front grill
- Remove both headlights
2 screws along top
1 screw down hole - in center, back about 3" from lens
- Remove plug from main bulb and parking light
- Follow parking bulb wires back to where there is a connector.
I used another set of wires (from a wrecked C) to cut so that when it
comes time to replace, I could just unplug the old harness and simply
plug the parking lights back in.
- Take wires from the wrecked C and cut off bulb housing, strip
the black wire (the brown is for ground) and attach to the harness where
the city lights go (in this case, grey) I highly suggest soldering the
connections, wrapping securely in electrical tape, and then using
zip-ties to secure the tape.
Repeat for the other side. Then plug the new harness where the old ones
used to plug into.
- On the driver's side, carefully strip the wires on the main
headlight harness. ~2" from the end of the connector, carefully strip a
small amount (1/4") of insulation from each wire (white w/ black stripe
- high beam) and yellow w/ black stripe - low beam) Attach the high
beam side to the white wire and the low beam side to the low beam.
Again, carefully solder, wire, and secure.
- For the harness for the passenger side lights, I ran the harness
along the front of the radiator support. I mounted the plate that the
relays are mounted to directly behind where the driver's side headlight
is (in between the headlight and the battery) - attached with two
stainless screws into predrilled holes. I ran the power (+) lead along
the harness that runs under the battery. I ran the negative/ground lead
along the side. (along the front fender towards the power steering
resevoir)
- Attach the connector to the back of each light and install the
lights. The lights attach in exactly the same way as the stock ones.
(3 screws per side total) I had some trouble with the bottom tongue
fitting into the groove - I must lack the touch - it eventually fit with
no problem.
- On mine, it hit the top of the relays and would no longer easily snap
into the holder. I bent mine slightly to clear and have had no problems
with it. (Note, if you force the rod to clip into the holder, the
upward pressure that it causes on the hood can keep the hood from
opening when pulling on the hood release!)
- Dazzle (no - blind!) your friends with 400W of total high beam - and
that is still excluding the fog/driving lights!
Conclusions
It is always nice to see where you've been in your life. It is even
better to see where you are going.
The wiring harness + 80/100 bulbs is expensive but really makes the job
a snap.
Note: if you plan on running lower wattage bulbs, the stock
harness should do just fine. However, if you do plan on running higher
wattage (like the 80w/100w bulbs) it is imperative that you run the
relays...
(the smell of buring wires and insulation is a really nasty smell - not
to mention the strain on the stock relays and the switch!)
If you plan on (or have to for inspection reasons) keeping the stock
headlights handy and need a quick backtrack, the above installation
procedure should help you. I can probably return to the stock light
configuration in ~ 10 minutes or so.
For me to return to stock config (at least for inspection) I just remove
the euros, take the stock lights, plug in the connectors for the main
lights (which I did NOT cut off), and unplug the harness for the parking
lights and replace with my old wires. That is it!
The relay config is also really easy. Essentially, your headlight
switch acts as a trigger for the relays.
When you turn on your parking lights, the wires to the parking lights
are powered. These directly power the city lights.
When you turn on the low beams, the voltage to the driver's side
headlight kicks the relay for the low beams, which then allow power
directly from the battery (through a 30A fuse) to go to both low beams.
When you go to high beams, the voltage to the driver's side high beam
kicks a second relay (for the high beams), which then allows power from
the battery (through a 2nd 30A fuse) to go the the high beams.
Total costs
| Lights (New Dimensions) | $459.95
|
| Harness (also ND) | $119.95 (includes 80/100 bulbs, etc.)
|
Total time
Probably ~1 hour or so. Give or take 30 minutes depending on how anal
you are about wiring/soldering/taping/etc. :)
Impressions
The real deal when it comes to lights. The 400W total on highbeams is a
real delight on twisty, dark roads. The cut off pattern for the euro
lights is absolutely crisp on the low beams. Properly aimed, there is
no glare, just a nice, crisp light. Expensive but definitely worth it -
even just for the beam pattern.
Notes
-
All of the euro lights sold in the US are not legal for public roads,
blah blah blah. Considering that 50% of the driving public believes
that high beams are for fog; that lights should be aimed directly at
opposing traffic, the sky above, or at the ground directly below the
radiator; or that lights should be optional even in pitch darkness - I
say - HUMBUG. My new lights do not blind and are exceedingly good at
illuminating the road in front of my onrushing car. Lucky is the person
I avoid because I can see them stumbling in the road.
-
All of the Euro lights currently sold in the states are for the G60
only. They fit the SLC/VR6 cars without modifications - however, they
sit in slightly and do not fit 100% flush with the front of the car.
To be honest, if someone hadn't mentioned it, I would have never
noticed.
-
If you decide to keep the stock light connectors, I would suggest
protecting the now exposed part of the connector. Either some tape in
conjunction with some dielectric grease, or perhaps a small plastic bag
of some sort. If left exposed, they could rust up and eventually cause
corrosion in the harness itself.
