By Jan Vandenbrande
                               DRAFT
                               Copyright (C) 1995

The European version of the Corrados have the same type of bright rear fog lights you occasionally see the newer Volvos and M-B blinding people behind them with.
This rear fog light or lights are to be used under adverse weather conditions such as fog, heavy snow or rain, and provides a significant protection against rear end crashes.

Most US versions of the Corrados (G60 & SLC) share the same tail light assemblies and fog light switches with their European counterparts.
The only problem is that they are not hooked up. This procedure explains how to upgrade your car:

Is your car eligible?

Check list:

1. Does your fog light switch have 2 "ON" position, the second one seemingly not doing anything? If yes, good. If not, you can buy the buy the right switch, but you'll have to do some more rewiring that I will not cover here.
2. The rear fog lights are in the same assembly as the rear marker lights (the ones that come on when you have the lights on) mounted on the hatch (NOT on the body with the brake lights). Do you see a second reflector w/o bulb next to the tail light marker lights. It also has a red lens.
3. Good so far? Now open up the black panel that covers the hatch lights and wing control. The panel is held by "bayonet" screws that require a 1/4-1/2 turn with a Phillips #2 screw driver to loosen. Carefully pull the plastic cover away. It's rather delicate.
   Look at the light socket assembly for the tail light markers after you remove one (push in the snaps and pull). It should have one empty slot where the rear fog light should go. The rear fog light lens is covered with a serated round blank. It looks a bit like a "*".

If you find all of these, you can upgrade you car.

This procedure is technically not difficult, but requires some patience, taking apart several interior panels, seats and carpet. Unless you are very dedicated, I'd combine this procedure with another upgrade opportunity.

I did my first upgrade in my 90 G60 when I installed my alarm system and Dynamat sound deadening material: if you take half the car appart, you may as well do everything at once. Next I also upgraded our 92 SLC. In the above cars, both had the necessary equipment on both ends (switch and tail light assemblies) but did not have the wires to go in between them. Bummer!

TOOLS:

1. Take the rear platic cover of the rear deck (1/4 turn on the screws)
2. Punch or cut the "*" blanks from the rear fog light reflectors (I did both sides, though some prefere to have only the left light installed like in Europe).
   
3. Install wire from right to left light fog light after you figure out which of the connectors of the tail light assembly to use.
4. Pull wire from the left upper rubber accordion thingy on top of the hatch through the left side of the hatch.
   I just used a stiff 14 awg wire to push it through. It takes a lot of patience, greasing it up a bit, etc, but eventually it will come through. If you have an electrician wire puller, that may help. You may be luckier from starting at the bottom, but I always succeeded starting from the top.
   Once the wire is through, hook it up to the rear fog lights, install the lights and test to see whether it works (you do not want to find out you have a brake in the cable once you are done). The lamps are just standard single filament 20 Watt bayonet mount lamps used for back up lights.
   It's the special reflector that makes the seem so bright. You can also buy special halogen lamps if you want to have an even brighter effect.
   Congratulations, the first trickiest part is over.
5. Detatch the left speaker carier, all platic molding and covers from the rear side of the car. Just makes sure you find all screws, and things should just come off. Some of the molding needs to be carefully pulled of because it's snapped on. Go slowly step by step, and it's ok to use a blunt instrument to help things to unsnap.
6. Carefully pull on the plastic strip that holds the rear of the headliner, and pass the wire sticking out from the accordion through the hole and follow the stock wiring harness. Note: Use plenty of tie wraps to keep the wire from ratteling. You do not have to loosen the rear headliner much because you'll have just enough space to get to wire. Also make sure you have plenty of wire at this point because you'll be doing a bunch of loop-de-loops before you are up front. 10 meters may seem much, but you'll be surprised how much you really use.
7. Follow the existing wiring harness as much as you can with your cable to the front of the car. The wire will go from the roof down to the left hand side of the car towards the rear trunk light, then possibly disappear behind some sheet metal panelling, then reappearing, before following the lower edge of the trunk. In the trunk, leave an extra loop or two of wire in case you ever goof up. The wire will continue past the rear left seat. The rear seat can be removed by pushing the front of the seat in and then pulling up. The wire will then follow the left bottom edge of the car, past the front seat towards the fuse box.
   
8. Remove the plastic cover above the driver's foot well, next to the fuze box and also the panelling that's below the hood release. Pull the wire all the way to the fuse box, securing it every couple of feet with tie wraps.
   
9. Now that you are at the fuse box, consult Bentley on what wire you need to attach yours to. <I'll look this up soon, but double check with your car in case they changed anything> The wire you need goes into the fuze box somewhere (Connector K, Wire 10 if I remember correctly (?)). Once you find it, just strip a bit of insulation with a sharp knife from that wire and soldered your new wire to it and insulate with tape. You could use a Scotch Lock, but I have not had much luck with them. You could also figure out in what location to insert the wire in the fuse box (there is indeed an official orifice for it), but you'll be happy if you just find the damn wire you need. Naturally, you need to test whether the wire you find is the right one before soldering. I usually just stick a pin in the wire and test it with a VOM by toggeling the switch.

It's not as bad as it sounds, the worst parts are the fishing expedition and finding your way through the rats nest of wires in the fuze box. Expect two hours or more of work.

One of the optional enhancements is to hook the rear fog lights through a diode to the brake lights. Having been rear ended 3 times in the last couple of years, it is something I am considering. The diode is needed so that your brake lights won't come on when you have your rear fog lights on (so you need to orient the diode's arrow in the right direction in the wiring). However, I have not tested this yet, and if you are interested check to see whether your front fog lights won't come on if you use your brakes.

The information contained here is copyrighted by the author. The right to reproduce this is hereby given, provided it is copied intact, with the copyright notice inclusive and original author identified.
However, the author explicitly prohibit selling this document, any of its parts, or any document which contains parts of this document.

From: HAPPIG@aol.com

I've already wired both my fog lights and the brake lights. On the 93 VR6s, the place where the wire goes is P 6 in the fuse box.. It's a grey and blue (if I'm not mistaken) wire. Just strip some insulating and attach the wire going to the rear fog lights. Well, here's how I did my brake lights along with my fog lights.

WIRING FOR REAR BRAKE LIGHTS (Assuming you already did Jan's procedures for the fog lights):

1. Have the wires already wired to the rear fog light housing.
2. Get 2 diodes with the highest value you can find. (I got 3Amp/10000Volts) The way the diodes work is the stripe closest to the edge of the diode is the way the arrow points; like this:

                          Diode
                   |------------!--|
                   |            >>>>> !    |
 _________|            >>>>> !    |___________
                   |            >>>>> !    |
                   |------------!--|
(Left lead)                              (Right Lead)

        Current flows from left to right
         >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

The arrow shows the direction of the current flow (from left to right). The current can't go from right to left, unless the value of the diode is loo low.

3) Have the wire go next to the brake light housing in the trunk and nclip the bulb plate of teh brake housing
4) There are 5 wires going into 4 connections. The brown is he ground. The one on the other side of the ground is for the signal. The single red wire is for when you turn on your lights, which makes the bulb glow. The one with the 2 wires going into the same connection is for the brake lights. Find the 2 wires and spread some of the insulating to expose the bare wire, but DO NOT cut the wires because they are so short and hard to put back together.
5) Connect some of your wire to both wires and seal them good. 6) Connect (soldering is best) the other end of the wire to one of the diodes. From teh diagram, the wire should be attached on to left lead of the diode. The current should go from teh brake lights into the diode and out the other way.
7) Connect the other side of the diode to the wire coming from the fog light housings.
(ALWAYS ATTACH WIRES WITH ALGATOR CLIPS AND TEST BEFORE SOLDERING. It will be much easier)
8) WIth the other diode, connect the right lead (according to the diagram) to the right lead of the other diode. In other words, you will have the both right leads of each diode attached to the wire leading to the fog light housing.
9) On the second diode, connect the wire coming from the fuse box to the left lead.

FUSE BOX________________          DIODE 2
                                              |_____>>>__
                                                                 |
                                                                 |_____ TO
FOG LIGHT HOUSING
                                              |_____>>>__|
BRAKE LIGHT HOUSING______|         DIODE 1

(2 wires)

>>> are the diodes

10) After all work is done, make sure you cover everything with electrical tape to reduce chances of shroting the whole car.

This works just fine for me.
P.S. When I pres steh brakes with teh fog lights on, it doesn't get any brighter.

Any other questions regarding this?
Happig
Happig@aol.com

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