Then I have to get the standard disclaimer out of the way: use this information at your own risk. My employer has nothing to do with this, and I am not associated with any of the companies and products mentioned. I disclaim any responsiblity for any mishaps that may occur as a result of this procedure.
So, first check out the symptoms to see if you have connecting rod rattle in your G60 Corrado. It will sound like knocking (a metallic sound) but occurs only under partial load and especially between 2-3000 rpm. It can seem to come from the right side of the engine. It is often loudest when the engine is slowing down through 3-2000 rpm. It will only be apparent when the engine oil is warm (>180F). Make sure the noise can also be heard when the car is not moving, as you don't want to misdiagnose it for something else.
Now go and buy the parts. You will need: 8 connecting rod bearing shells. Make sure you get the revised set which have a central oil hole. I threw away the box so I don't have the part no. They will come as a set and cost about $30. Get the standard sized set, as most of the wear will be on the bearings and not the crank. The original bearings were much too soft for the G60 engine. 8 connecting rod bolts and nuts. They will also come as a set. They need to be replaced because the stock ones are stretch bolts and cannot be reused. You can opt to buy the OEM bolts from VW, or for about the same price you can buy a set of Raceware bolts. The Raceware part no. is RTE-4002 and they cost about $120. They ARE reusable. One oil pan gasket, cost around $10. 5 quarts of synthetic oil (eg Mobil 1 15W50), an OEM oil filter and the small copper washer for the drain plug, which should always be replaced. Total cost is around $25. I bought everything except the oil from Velocity (310-643-0005) because they were the cheapest. The dealer wanted 3x as much as them for each part (eg the bearings would have been $100 for the set).
Next check if you have all the tools:
3/8" socket set with a few additions, such as a 3/8 to 1/4 adapter, a
1/4" drive
10mm socket and a 1/4" flex extension (to get the oil pan bolts off).
A good torque wrench with a 3/8" drive. The torque for the connecting
rod
bolts is fairly critical, so if you have an old one, get it calibrated.
A small hammer to knock out the old bolts and a small clamp (about 3"
long) to
force in the new bolts until you can pull them through using the nuts.
A Bentley manual.
The usual assortment of screwdrivers and pliers, plus a long pipe for
extra
leverage on the tough nuts.
A jack and jackstands, and oil change accessories.
Now get ready to spend most of your Saturday under the car. First drive it around to get the oil warm, then drain out the old oil. Meanwhile take out the spark plugs (you will need to rotate the crank later) and cover the holes with clean rags. Jack up the car and make sure it is safe on the stands. Now get ready to take off the oil pan. For this you will need the 10mm 1/4" socket and flex extension. But first you may need to remove a silver metal piece that is bolted onto the trans at the engine side, which obscures the oilpan bolts in that area. I don't know what it is for. Take off oilpan (careful to keep all the bolts) and old gasket. At this stage a lot of old oil will drain all over the floor. Now remove the oil pump by undoing the larger 2 bolts which hold it in place. The black baffle with also come away. If you want to check/replace the oil pump, now is a good time.
Once the oilpump is out everything should become much clearer. First put a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt (I found a sparkplug socket ideal) and rotate until the crank journals are at the bottom of the stroke. Work on one connecting rod at a time, as you don't want to mix up the rod caps. Undo the nuts and remove the cap. The bearing should slide out easily. To get out the bearing shell from the rod itself you need to push up on the rod (but not too far in case you hit the valves), reach in and remove it. But first you may want to remove the old bolts. You will need patiently to hit them will a small hammer. I say patiently because you don't want to screw anything up, but really a hammer is the only way. Once the old bolts are out I would think about putting in the new bolts first. Lubricate them with some clean oil first (this also applies to the new bearings), then attempt to push them in all the way. If they won't go try using the small clamp. (It will work eventually, and if you replace the rod cap you can draw the bolts into the holes by tightening the nuts.) Now replace the bearings with the new ones (with central holes) which you have lubed. You will see a small tab that will fit into a notch in the rod or cap. Make sure this happens. Replace the rod, making sure it is back on the same way you took it off: the markings on the rod and cap should be adjacent to each other, and the side markings should point to the timing belt side of the engine. Now lubricate the nuts and tighten up the bolts. If you have OEM bolts follow the torquing procedure in Bentley. If you have Raceware bolts follow the torquing procedure that comes with the bolts. I tightened up the bolts once, undid them and relubricated, and retorqued them as they recommend. Pay close attention to your torque wrench technique.
Now carry on and replace the other 3 sets of bearings. You will have to turn the crankshaft after your second one. And it will become much easier as you get some practice. Once you have finished you may want to recheck the torque on the bolts, if you got Raceware. If it's OEM, then leave them be.
Replace the oil pump and torque its bolts according to Bentley. Wipe clean the oilpan flange and make sure all the old gasket is off. Now comes a difficult part: you have to hold the new oilpan gasket in place while you get the oilpan back on. You may find a hose is the way. I got assistance at this stage; it's amazing how much more you could do if you always had 4 hands. Do up the bolts in a roughly cross-wise fashion and check them all one last time for tightness (don't want any oil leaks). Replace the mysterious silver thing on the trans, and replace the oil drain plug, using the new copper washer. Take out the old oil filter and replace with a new one (not much more than hand tight). Recheck you replaced everything and take the car off the stands. Pour in 4 quarts of oil and let it drain in. Meanwhile replace the spark plugs.
Now start up the car. Let it run for a minute or 2, then stop the engine and let the oil drain down again. Check with the dipstick and add oil until it looks good (you will need around 1/2 quart more). Do NOT overfill with oil (just thought I would get that one in). Once the oil looks good start up the car again and check underneath and around the oil filter for leaks. If all looks good, go for a drive and then have a beer (in that order).
If this did not cure the noise then I'm afraid the problem lies elsewhere (such as wrist pin rattle, which will be more difficult to repair). If this is the case, then you can console yourself with the knowledge you have a chance to bond emotionally (if not physically) with the insides of your Corrado. However, in my case the noise completely disappeared and has not returned after almost one year.
Thorsten Allers
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