Submitted by Yosh Hakutani
I blew up my G-lader up @ Le Circuit Mont Tremblant at the lastest track event. As I had driven from Philadelphia to Tremblant for the event, my main goal was to get home.
Items needed:
Procedure 1:
1. remove the nut @ the top of the serpentine belt tensioner. wearing
the gloves, push down on the tensioner while rocking it back and forth
towards the passenger side. The tensioner will come off.
2. remove the airbox
3. jack up the passenger side and place the jackstand firmly.
4. remove the water-pump/power-steering belt. There are 2 nuts
perpendicular and 1 nut that will remove the tension - (all 13mm)
5. Look at how the serpentine belt routes itself around the crank
pulley, ac compressor, alternator, and the supercharger. All we will be
doing is to bypass the supercharger. In essence, from the top of the AC
compressor, we loop around one of the idler pulleys and go to the
alternator.
6. Use the shorter Gates/Arrow belt and reverse the instructions.
Procedure 2: (if your g-lader has blown up and sent bits into the
intercooler)
1. Remove the rubber elbow between the intake / throttle body and the
outlet pipe from the intercooler. does it have metal in it? no? great!
Go to #2. yes? you probably got some metal into the engine. :( bad
news. I don't know what you should do at this point - tow the car?
2. Remove the outlet pipe from the intercooler - to get to the clamp,
you may need to remove some of the wheel well housing as well as the
driver's side brake cooling duct.
3. Roll the duct/racer tape around the rubber intake pipe. (on the end
that was attached to the outlet pipe from the intercooler) The idea is
to build the hose up to where it will match the diameter of the cone
filter so that you can attach it directly to the intake, bypassing the
clogged intercooler and blowing metal into the engine. Alternatively, I
suppose you could attach the airbox directly to the intake...
With the above, my C is rather pokey. As in slow. But given enough time, it will cruise with no problems @ 100mph + all day. I know this because I got back from Tremblant to Philly in under 8 hours and to/from Waterfest without any problems at all. It is no rocket ship (8.5-1 compression 8V) but is fine from around town cruising. But hey, it got me home - in good time too!
A long term issue is what to do with the PCV valve blow off oil. You could pipe from the valve into an secured oil bottle - just empty it out everyonce in a while.
So what are my long term plans here? Eaton supercharger utilising stock mounting plates and intercooler piping. Estimated @ 18 psi (at a lower RPM) and reliable as all getup. Estimated time to completion? I just got the mockup this week and have figured out how it will be plumbed. Next is to machine up the various brackets, etc. I hope to have it running with the Eaton by the beginning of next month.
Enjoy!
Yosh
Submitted by: Alden Cates
Hello all,
Got tired of waving the steam out of the way while driving in the
cold New England mornings in the Ghia. So, i bypassed the G60
altogether. I found that the belt# on the cca page isnt valid (at
least in my part of the country). To do what i did you will need:
1) 1 6 rib 59.5 inch serpentine belt
2) 1 2" PVC domestic pipe tee
3) 1 2" PVC domestic pipe street elbow
4) 1 2" PVC domestic pipe 45 elbow
5) 1 1' length of 2" PVC domestic pipe
6) 1 can of PVC cement
7) 1 .75 x 1 x 1.5 inch slab of aluminum or other metal (aluminum is
easy to work)
8) 1 metric tap set ( i forgot the actual thread sizes, sorry)
9) 1 Roll of the handyman's secret weapon, Duct Tape
10) Various drills, wrenches, screwdrivers and a saw
Start by fitting the (NO CEMENT YET) street elbow to the tee so that its on the perpendicular outlet. Put the 45 on the other end of the street elbow (you will need a 1.5 inch or so length of pipe). Now fit this assembly in where the SC was so that the elbow is down. Cut a length of tube to fit from the 45 to the intercooler tube as well as for the air box hose and the bypass tube. Once you have it all fitted the way you like, cement them together on at a time. Once cured, use the hose clamp for the intercooler tube and the duct tape for the air box and bypass tube. Be sure to wrap ALL the joints very thoroughly, even the cemented joints as you may have missed a few holes.
Next, take the two oil line fittings out of the G60 and match them to the appropriate taps. Take the peice of aluminum and drill through it the long way (all the way through) with the pilot for the smaller tap. Tap one side. Now drill half way through from the untapped side with the pilot drill for the larger of the two taps. Tap the second hole. You can now connect the two oil leads togerther without modification.
Now you are ready to roll, you will have to use the gears a lot more but it beats driving that old Ghia in the cold!
Help Support the CCA by:
The Corrado Club of America, Inc. is a nonprofit group run entirely by volunteers. ISP support provided by Netsville.