Seems the only aftermarket kit out there is the Neuspeed dual gauge panel that fits (and unfortunately fills) in the center console bin. I paid about $25 for the plastic panel (from Velocity) but I've heard this is the exact same part the dealer sells, so it maybe possible to find a better price.
The instructions that come with the panel are well written and detailed, however I found most of the steps were not required for the install. Basically, it tells you to remove the entire console surrounds, including the upper center vents, the heater control panel, the ashtray/lighter moldings and then the actual bin itself. I didn't want to go to all that trouble, and after reading ahead in the steps, couldn't really fathom why this was required. After test fitting the panel in the still-installed bin, I decided to do the install without the major dismantle.
Marking out the location of the 6 holes to be made in the bin is a little tricky, as the curvature of the bin makes it hard to locate a ruler/tape measure precisely. I attached the two metal mounting brackets to the panel and then positioned the panel in the bin opening. I made a couple of hole marks at the bracket mounting holes using a 3/16th drill bit. You have to reach inside one of the two gauge holes to do this.
Then, remove the panel and make the first hole. Now again the instructions tell you to do this the hard way, by using your hand to turn the drill bit until you make the hole (OUCH!..you can't fit a proper power drill unless you've got a 90 degree angle drill of some sort). Instead I simply took the bit and heated the blunt end with a propane torch for a few seconds, then carefully poked a hole thru the bin wall...like a hot knife thru butter! The heat left a bit of a lump around the hole, but this was easy to remove with a small file (emery cloth would also work). I then placed the mounting bracket (still on the panel) in positon and put one of the pop rivets thru the hole (just for a test fit, not permanently). This allowed me to mark the second hole on the same side. Repeated the heat trick. Did the same procedure for the other side and the lower to anchor holes. Then I mounted the brackets and popped the rivets in place (leaving the panel off for now).
Next came the voltmeter install. The 2" VDO gauge fits the panel opening perfectly. The wiring requires a small hole to be drilled in the back of the bin (you can use a real drill if you drill the back panel instead of the walls). Just make sure you can reach around behind the area to be drilled thru the driver's side footwell (I just removed 3 or 4 panel screws and was able to pull the panel clear enough to get me forearm in there). This lets you pull the wire thru easily. I chose to run the voltmeter and its illumination off the easily accessible heater fan control switch. Pull the temp control levers and fan knob off carefully. The Panel then pops out. Removing the ashtray give you some more room, but is not strictly necessary. Take out a 12v test lamp or voltmeter and probe the control switch wiring with the ignition key on. You need to find the "on-with-ignition" wire (my car's fan always runs...no off position) to connect the voltmeter +12v lead to. You also need to find the "on-with-dash-lamps" wire. There is a panel lamp right next to the fan control switch. Finally, you need a ground wire. I made all connections by soldering (had too many bad experiences with those automotive crimp-on splice connectors!). That's it! re-assembly is the reverse of removal.
For locating the oil pressure sender, find the stock senders (yes, there's a lo & a hi sender and also a temp sender) on the oil filter flange (top side...you can see them all looking straight down near the a/c compressor). The smallest fitting is the temp sender. The two larger ones are the pressure senders. There is a rather tight fit down there and you have to fiddle a lot about the position of your adaptor and gauge sender. What helped me immensely was purchasing a G60 engine adaptor which has a nice swivel arm and an angled mount point (cost was steep..$80 from Velocity...but you might find one cheap from a scrap yard with G60's, like Ron's Parts Inc or Bug World). To remove the senders, I used a long extension bar, a deep 22mm?? (check to make sure...my memory is bad!) socket on a universal joint (required to allow the extension bar to exit the engine bay).
Routing the sender's wire to the dash was easy...I poked some stiff wire thru the rubber grommet up in the wiper motor bay on the drivers side. Then after snagging the wire under the dash, I taped on the sender wire coming off the gauge and fished the stiff wire back out the grommet, sender wire and all.
Remember to check the sender's for leaks (I used new washers all round and had none).
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