--Technical--
rec.autos.vw
Version:
1 Jan 93 = Inception, more or less.
1 Feb 93 = Removing O2 Snsr; Offrd lights #; tools
1 Mar 93 = Brake rotor edits; VW part numbers; sagging doors; Compression
checks; adjusting valves.
1 Apr 93 = Stuff on interchangeability on parts; Rim offsets
1 May 93 = Eliminating rattles & squeaks, updated timing belt procedure,
water pump failure diagnosis, added keyword <NOISE> for easy
diagnosis, clutch sizes.
1 Jun 93 = CAM Baffles, Index.
1 Jul 93 = Edits.
1 Aug 93 = Chemical Info added.
1 Sep 93 = Edits, Tool info edits, dielectric grease, MTL caution
1 Oct 93 = Edits.
1 Nov 93 = Coolant/phosphates updated, rim ranges.
1 Dec 93 = Corrections on rim ranges, hesitation updates,
1 Jan 94 = Tom Coradeschi reformats.
15Jan 94 = Battery updates, Tire pressures, body care.
1 Feb 94 = Copyright BS added. Charge indicator diagnosis.
15Feb 94 = Split performance issues into its own faq!
1 Mar 94 = Edits, update recall info
1 Apr 94 = Edits. Updated brakes & transmissions a bit
1 May 94 = Remove bushings, edits
15May 94 = More rough idle & black smoke stuff added.
1 Jun 94 = Paint touch up procedure.
15Jun 94 = Updated with ND BBS stuff (coolant, bulbs)
1 Jul 94 = Edits
15Jul 94 = Tesing synchros. Overheating, windshields, seats, rim care
1 Aug 94 = Edits
15Aug 94 = Paintless dent removal.
1 Sep 94 = Inline fuel filter removal.
15Sep 94 = Edits.
1 Oct 94 = Edits
1 Nov 94 = Added some coolant service info, windshield Urethane, maintenance
schedule.
1 Dec 94 = Updated FI cleaners.
1 Jan 95 = Updated coolant.
15Jan 95 = Exhaust hangers, retrofittimg programmable wiper control
15Feb 95 = Leather care
15Mar 95 = Approval received for *.answers & archival @ MIT
1 Apr 95 = W6DPO plug comparison
15Apr 95 = Tire build dates
1 May 95 = Vinyl/Rubber Conditioner update
Moderator:
Jan Vandenbrande
jan@ug.eds.com
jan@lipari.usc.edu (school address, works)
See also the list of contributors at the end.
Please feel free to submit any additional info.
The information contained here is collectively copyrighted by the
authors. The right to reproduce this is hereby given, provided it is
copied intact, with the copyright notice inclusive.
However, the authors explicitly prohibit selling this document, any
of its parts, or any document which contains parts of this document.
(Inspired from faq.audio ;->)
These technical aspects handles issues that will help you maintain the
car in near stock conditions. The perfomance FAQ discusses issues
to improve upon the stock design.
Quite often, to remain stock complient is as expensive as it is to
upgrade to better after market (performance) parts. Shocks and tires
are a good example of this.
Index:
General issues (tools, VW part no system)
Chemicals (Useful chemicals to have around)
Engine (Rough idle/stalling, oil filter, more power,
water pump, plugs, O2 sensor)
Electrical (Bosch # conventions, charging problems, lights, etc)
Transmission (CV Joints, shifting, gear oils)
Brakes (Types, fluids, rotors)
Tires/Rims/Suspension (shocks, tire widths & rim upgrades, performance)
Body/Interior (Eliminating rattles, waxing)
Miscellanea (Corrado spoilers squeaks)
Q: I have a problem with my car? What do I do? How should I go about
fixing it?
While you are going over your car, check whether all the basic things are
in order.
VW engines run hot and the 4 cyl. vibrate a lot. As a result things rattle
loose and dry out quickly. This in turn causes a host of other problems.
Electrical connections & wires: Connectors tend to corrode, wires break
internally. Older VWs have a lot of problems which will make you think the
car is totally gone while all it may be is a loose wire, or a bad ground.
Also check out less obvious things: alternator brushes, fuse box, Hall
connections *inside* the distributor?
Vacuum hoses: They crack, they leak. Replace where needed.
Beware of all rubber components. They wear out with all the heat.
If your engine does not run, there are really two main sources: Mechanical and periphery. Generally, VW engines hold up mechanically rather well, and even with mechanical problems you can often get the engine to run. Usually the problem is located with the periphery. You really only need two basic things to make an engine run: Fuel and a spark at +/- the right moment. Suspect a problem with either one first and trace it from there. If for example the problems occurs each time it rains, suspect something wrong with an electrical connection or water leaking onto the fuze box.
Yours truly once had problems with a carb and was able to start and run the engine while spraying carb cleaner directly into the intake manifold (with the carb REMOVED).
Cleaning the car and engine is often helpful in locating the problem, especially leaks. It also make working on the car so much easier, for you and the mechanic.
If you haven't found it yet, read through your manuals and try to identify the offending piece?
Ask around. r.a.vw is an excellent source for help, but please be as detailed as you can. If you are having trouble diagnosing the problem, just imagine how hard it is for us not even having seen the car. So *please* don't post: "My car makes a funny noise. What could it be?" Start with make, model, year, and an accurate diagnosis.
After you narrow it down to a couple of potential sources, start with the
easiest and cheapest fix.
My experience is that a majority of seemingly serious problems can be
traced to very simple problems.
Mechanics do NOT have the time to check individual components.
Many work on commission (like department stores) and the more cars they
work on (not fix) the more they earn. Therefore, they usually take the
quickest route for them (replace stuff), and of course you end up paying
for that shiny new part through the nose even though it does not fix the
problem.
Besides, would you pay a mechanic $200 to fix a 50 cent connector because
it took him/her the whole day to find it?
Q: I want to work on my VW. What tools should I get?
Most people start with a couple of tools and then buy more as time progresses and they learn how to work on their car. It makes sense, except that it is usually cheaper to buy the most complete "set" rather than buying a small set and then adding on (e.g., socket "set"
Next, what brand name should you get. First look for tools with a life time
warrantee (though that may not be an indication of quality). In North
America, SnapOn, MAC, Stanley, Mechanix, Blackhawk, KD, and Sears Craftsman
tools (though their quality and warrantee policy is rumored to be
declining).
Avoid cheap tools, they are NOT worth the money, they can do more harm than
good (stripping), and may actually hurt you.
My order of preference is (and I'll be flamed for this, but this IS based
on 15 years of experience): Made in the USA or NW-Europe, & Japan. I
usually stay away from Taiwanese tools except for one shot "light" duty
items. They are getting better, but so far quality has varied too much to
be reliable.
A basic set should consist of:
Socket set:
Most versatile is a 3/8" ratchet drive set. It must contain 10, 13, 17,
19mm, and sparkplug socket, a couple extension bars and a 3/8-1/4"
adaptor.
12 pt sockets are the most common, but you may want to consider a 6 pt
set instead. They are MUCH less likely to strip and break if you need to
exert a good amount of torque.
Deep sockets are also useful in case you need to clear a bolt.
A torque wrench is also very useful. Unfortunately there is no one size
for all torques on the car. There are a variety of models: Cheapest are
those with a read out gauge. They work well but usually you end up in a
position that you cannot read the gauge.
I prefer the "click type" torque wrenches where you dial in the desired
torque and it will give you a loud click once you attain that.
Screw drivers:
Get a whole bunch of sizes, spade & Phillips
Allen Keys:
Get a whole bunch of sizes, though you may want to get Allen key Sockets
to use with your 3/8" drive (once you figure out the sizes you need).
Wrenches:
Get the largest set you can afford. Open and closed.
Same sizes as above. Get at least one large adjustable one.
Pliers:
Again, get the largest set you can afford, regular & miniature,
straight, needle nosed. Vise Grips are useful too.
Hammers:
Get a plastic & rubber one. The "normal" hammers are usually not used on
cars except in utter frustration.
Jack & Stands:
I'd recommend a floor jack over a bottle or scissor jack. A floor jack
will make raising your car *so* much easier. Stands are also a must. You
don't want you car crashing down on you. Use with wood and some foam
rubber to protect you car's undercoating.
Lights:
At the minimum get a knock-about light with a shatter proof heavy duty
lamp in it (don't even *think* of using a regular light bulb, dangerous,
and they only last 10 minutes under those conditions). A well lit garage
(i.e., 8" neon lamps is ideal).
Oil Filter wrench:
Different types exist and it depends on what works best for your car. My
favorite is the one that looks like an extension bar with a loop of seat
belt material.
Air Pump:
Pump up tires...
Tire gauges:
Dial types are usually the most accurate.
Odds an ends:
Tie wraps, electrical wires & connectors, elec. tape, vacuum hoses, hose
clamps.
Occasionally, things WILL go wrong, usually 5 minutes before all shops close on a day before a long weekend, when your other car is gone or your bike has a flat, all your neighbors with tools or out of town, and right before you embark on a long trip, and a very unsympathetic spouse watching on.
For many of these, you can wait for a sale, but do get them when you have a chance.
Screw Extractor Set/Easy Out:
Get a set, just in case, to remove stripped screws/bolts/brake bleed
nipples.
Magnetic Pickup:
Basically a magnet on an antenna. Lose a nut down your intake manifold
throat or down a cylinder?...this should help. Don't even *think* on
starting the car.
Claw pick up:
Like the above except it has little claws on the end of a flexible tube
to pick things up. Similar use as above.
>>>> STILL NEEDS WORK <<<<<
Q: My A1 based VW sounds very buzzy and noisy, vibrations in the <NOISE>
engine compartment. What's wrong?
From [KIRBY ERLANDSEN]: My tricks are to cut the old one out with a hacksaw (this is easy because you can remove the hacksaw blade and cut from the inside out ) and put the new mount in the freezer while you heat the bracket in the oven. Then with gloves on, you can hammer the two together fairly easily. [Note, oil the components FIRST] If that does not work, bring it to a machine shop and have them press it in for you.
See also a1.mounts in the archives.
Q: My odometer/trip odometer stopped working. How do I fix it?
Hints on removing: A2's are a lot easier than A1's. The hardest part is
unscrewing the speedo cable. Try taking the lower dash covers off and put
your hand up from the bottom. Also I just remove the steering wheel before
working on the cluster. It makes it a whole lot easier, but be sure your
steering wheel and shaft are marked so you can get them back on the same.
Otherwise your wheel will be crooked when you drive straight.
Reinstalling is harder because you have to be sure the square drive on the
speedo matches up with the cluster. Otherwise the cable will not seat fully
or the speedo nut is hard to start.
Also, be careful to align the wiring connector before trying to insert -
it's polarized.
Other hint: I also twisted some fine wire around the flanges of the gear (near the shaft) and put glue over the wire and flanges. Make sure to get the gear back in the proper position under the worm gear.
Other hint: I usually go down to the junk yard and look for damaged dashboards and speedo's. Usually one has the gear I need -- I just pry it off -- this is a no cost item if you have a friendly junk yard owner.
Other hint: Another approach I used on my '79 Rabbit was to go to a hobby
shop and find a small pinion gear for those electric race cars. It had the
right number of teeth, and same ID, but was slightly wider and had an Allen
set screw.
I filed off the outer edges to clear the other worm gears and mounted it on
the shaft with the set screw. Looked weird, but worked OK. The gear will
cost about $3 and you need the fine Allen key wrench.
You can also send it to have it fixed at: VDO (the OEM) in VA, (703) 665-0100
Q: What is VWs part numbering scheme?
vvv ggg ppp [s]
vvv: Vehicle type ggg: PRIMARY INDEX
171 = R/G I 100-199 = Engine/Cooling/Clutch
161 = Jetta I 200-299 = Exhaust, Fuel Tank
165 = Jetta II 300-399 = Transmission/Transaxle
261 = 16V GTI 400-499 = Front Axle/Suspension
531 = Scirocco I 500-599 = Rear Axle
535 = Scirocco II 600-699 = Brake
155 = Convertible 700-799 = Cables, Bumpers and Foot control
191 = Golf 800-899 = Body/Interior
900-999 = Electrical, ignition, fuel injection
ppp: Individual Part Number s: Suffix, optional
The primary index and the part number are the most important numbers because many of the cars share the same parts. So do not be surprised to see a 171-Rabbit type part in a Jetta. Note that some part numbers are exclusively related to certain parts of the car. For example, vvv = 020 are related to the transmission, vvv = 056 common oil filter.
Note: This is scheme has been in use since the Beetle days (111 - Standard
Beetle - LHD) but I leave that for the [A] FAQ. AUDI uses the same scheme
as well (?).
CHEMICALS
NOTE:
This section lists some of the more useful chemicals to use on cars.
Be aware that many of these chemicals are harmful if used improperly and
could result in stripped paint, rubber becoming brittle, up to poisoning,
cancer and death.
Dispose of them environmentally!
See also the section of Waxing for body care chemicals.
Q: What are some of the useful chemicals to have around?
FI/Valve Cleaner:
What ever you get make sure it does NOT harm catalytic conv or the
oxysensor.
The following are recommended and seem to work faily well. They are
added to a tank of gas, or fed directly into the FI system.
Lubro Molly: there are two products, an injector cleaner
and a valve cleaner. You can run the valve cleaner straight
through your injection system by hooking it to one of the
vaccum hoses and sucking it straight into the valves. Produces
lots of smoke but really helped my friends old 924. These are
expensive at $12-14 for both.
RedLine SL1: works very well and relatively cheap: $3.50 for the 12oz
bottle. My current favorite.
Chevron Techron: get the real thing, not the ProGuard stuff.
Not too expensive at $5.99/20oz bottle. (Imparts, others) Chevron
however, warns you not to use it too often between oil changes...
(I think no more than 5 treatments)
44K (BG Products): VW also recommends this more concentrated to be
used every 4k miles (= VW Part #208 (?)).
VW AutoBahn injector cleaner (rumored to be the same as Chevron Techron
for a lower price, for once).
Chevron ProGuard: only if none of the above is available. I used it
a few times, but couldn't tell a difference. I think it contains
Techron, but if you can get the real thing...
Note that ProGuard is a weaker version of Techron.
It's a non-oil soap (i.e., surfactant) based product that smells like
mint toothpaste.
"Chem Clean":
A can or bucket of chemicals that degreases bearings CVJs, or carbs REAL
fast (that stuff is amazing). It is however murder on skin and nails.
Hand Cleaner:
With pumice. Just buy a big vat. They are great, much better than
dishwash liquid or regular soap.
Good for lubricating non-metal components. Rumored to dry out rubber
though.
Depending on what you need to glue, use Epoxy, rubber cement,
RTV/Silicone Rubber, etc.
ThreadLocker:
See below.
Distilled water:
Battery & for coolant mixing
There is more, but buy some only as you need them because they may dry out.
Q: What should I do with Loctite Threadlocker (tm) and Anti Seize (tm)?
I use anti-seize the most, and if you torque things right, I never had a
problem of anything rattling loose.
Note that Loctite also seals out air, and therefore prevents corrosion
which means that disassembly will also be facilitated, compared to
something rusted shut. A small tube of each goes A LONG way.
Q: What power steering fluid should I use?
Q: I have a very rough idle/stalling/hesitation/bucking problem when the car is cold (or warm in some cases). What can I do to fix it?
[jan, 19930902, overheard in the VW shop] VW is going to embark in some form of campaign, not sure whether it is an actual NHTSA mandated one, to replace all the ECU's with one using gold plated connectors, replace and reroute several vacuum hoses, and replace the throttle body (the shaft has a radial play causing a vacuum leak in some cases). I believe that recent Passats, A2 Jettas and GTIs are included in this.
Depending on the model, do the following:
For RD (8V) series idle stablilizer problems (& others probably):
Symptom: Idles extremely rough when cold, improves after warmup. Doesn't
compensate for A/C compressor load when on.
Diagnosis: Disconnect the connector from the valve, measure resistance
from the center pin to each side, both should be about 12.5 ohms.
If either one reads high or open, replace it. (will be about $200 at your
Bosch dealer, owww).
Reason: The internals of the valve form a bidirectional DC servomotor,
the windings of which are connected through a commutator, which has a
nasty habit of arcing until the connection is gone.
A: VW's, MANN's or Bosch (OEM). FRAM (PH2870) or other brands do NOT have the
same valving (backflow, bypass), valving rates, rigidity of construction,
and quality. The other brands will work ok, but you may be running a risk.
Several known cases of Corrado G60s blowing FRAM filters open. Some known
cases of Porsches ruining engines with FRAM filters due to inadequate
gaskets.
MANN filters are also available from Beck Arnley World Parts, and are
packaged under that brand, so they are much cheaper than the factory
filters.
The function of the bypass valve is to bypass the oil filter if the filter is clogged or the oil is too viscous during a cold start. Dirty oil is better than NO oil.
The anti-backflow valve prevents the oil from draining out of the engine block into the oil pan. This means that oil will be available almost instantaneously at a start up, which is also when the majority of wear occurs (SLICK 50 is not lying about that). The VR6 engines have this valve build into the engine!
[Jan: Compared to the SLC oil filters (~15-20US$), the regular filters now seem cheap (~4-6US$)]
NOTE: Newer VWs DO NOT use the same filters as before. The G60 filter is recognizable by the "nut" welded on the bottom, the SLC does NOT use a filter but a replaceable insert (two kinds available, a short and a long one, measure before you buy).
Q: I seem to be running hot. What should I do?
See also the performance FAQ for other measures.
Q: How do I flush my cooling system?
Another trick to get around the airbubble problem came from Donald Borowski: Heat up the thermostat on a pan of water until it opens, and then insert an asprin pill as it closes. This will keep it open long enough to fill the system and get the air out, and then will disolve. I don't think that acetosalicylic (sp?) acid is very strong, and the amount is rather small.
Q: I want to flush my cooling system. Where can I get phosphate free coolant other than at the overpriced dealer prices?
According to [scornelius@ws11.iac.honeywell.com] Aluminum oxide in solution forms a black paste that makes a real mess, this will be visible inside the coolant bottle once the corrosion process has started (I've seen this in a custom street rod). So if you see a used VW with this condition, run away....
According to [Vincent Yeung] who called Prestone: Phosphate free anti-freeze is necessary in Europe because of the very hard water they have there. Somehow the phosphate in ordinary anti-freeze will react with the minerals in the hard water. However, he said the water in North America is not as hard and he knew a lot of VW with aluminum radiator have no problem using ordinary anti-freeze with tap water.
In the US market, all the popular brands until recently (Prestone, Zerex) contain phosphate in a buffered solution which keeps the phosphates in the coolant from ionizing (so they claim), at least for a while. I have used Prestone without seemingly ill effects, but if you want to be 100% sure, not void warrantee, use VW's coolant. Furthermore, mix with DISTILLED water, NOT tap water. Also do not mix coolants of different types. Flush the system before you change!
Newer coolants by Prestone (4/60), Arctic, Quaker State and BASF's Zerex Extreme are phosphate free, and are sold with different labels as to clearly identify the new product. They are selling these phosphate free products for environmental reasons!
They all advertise around a 4 year-50/60k miles life expectancy.
Whether that's purely marketing (the stuff costs more) or a significant
difference over the original formulations (that probably will last that
long as well) remains unknown.
Unverified claims: Texaco's coolant is also Phos free.
Whether these have any long term harmfull side effects (probably not)
still remains to be seen (these products were introduce in 93 in the US).
Note that VW's coolant is also made by BASF, but seems to be as slightly different formulation than their commercial Zerex product. According to BASF, Zerex Extreme has been approved to be used in VW, BMW, MB, Audi, Saab, and Volvo.
Sierra's new anti-freeze is based on Propylene Glycol (environmentally safe). Propylene Glycol is used as a "light" oil substitute in foods and is therefore not as deadly as Ethylene Glycol. See also below for more details.
ND has the following to say about Sierra: "Total marketing !! This is just another coolant with a different formula and since most all coolant is recycled now the enviro aspect is mute. This stuff will not work any better than any other coolant. Almost all coolant nowadays is ok to use in your VW. Just make sure it was designed for Aluminum heads which is almost all of them now."
Another thing to note is that VW claims that its original coolant does not have to be renewed every two years like Prestone. The reason they give that coolants like Prestone have sacrificing chemicals that prevent corrosion for a certain period. VW claims that their coolant does not have any sacrificing chemicals and therefore does not wear out. Personally, I don't think this is entirely true, and as a precaution, I change the coolant of it turns color or every couple of years. In some of the cars I have owned they coolant looked perfectly fine, in others it turned reddish brown after a couple of months.
This is not an endorsement of either products. I have no idea as to their effectiveness.
See also the archive file "Anti_Freeze" for additional details, and the performance faq on improving heat transfer.
Q: What's the easiest way of removing a water pump (A1 & A2 VWs)?
Then removing the pump is trivial. It's just the rest of the stuff that's a pain, depending on the model. Be patient, there are several hidden bolts/nuts that attach the AC and power steering pump.
Tip: Loosen the pulley bolts BEFORE removing the belts. If you are lucky, there will be enough resistance to keep the pulleys steady. If not, I have gone as far as to use a pipe wrench to hold the pulleys steady.
Another tip: If your pump leaks between the halves, it's safer to replace the pump as one unit rather than the impeller half. Chances are that the leaking pump is warped, and no matter how often you replace one half, it'll *always* give you problems. Use anti-seize on the bolts during reassembly.
While you are at it, check or replace the thermostat. They do get lazy after a while. Checking/replacing the hoses may not be such a bad idea either (note: they last ~ 70k miles or ~10 yrs IMHO).
On A1 Diesels (maybe A2) however it's easier to remove the timing belt, and then remove the impeller half of the pump. However [Borowski] the timing belt need not be removed on cars without air conditioning. Once the alternator bracket is removed, the water pump comes out easily.
Tip from Greg Welch:
Stay away from non-OEM waterpumps. Some are sold with smaller
impellers and as a result do not pump as well (you run hotter).
Q: How often should I change my drive belt?
Normally the two have to line up under normal idle & a strobe connected to cylinder #1. Some cars require certain vacuum hoses or the idle stabilizer to be disconnected. Check manual.
Note: Some cars (e.g. 87 & 88 GTI 16V) also have marks on the front pulley, with an arrow on the end of the block.
Note: Excessive advance raises combustion temperatures and pressures, while excessive retard extends the burning cycle through the exhaust and raises exhaust temps. (Mark Shaw)
Q: My radiator leaks, what should I do?
Whatever you do, avoid the temptation to use one of those Stop Leak products at all cost because it'll block more than just your leak (like the heater core). rgolen@UMASSD.EDU
Q: What causes engine knock/pinging/detonation? <NOISE>
NOTE: Do not mistake engine knock or pinging for other problems. Knock occurs under load (e.g., accelerating, going up a hill, fast driving). Knock seldom occurs under no load conditions (e.g., idle or revving the engine). If you hear a rattle there <NOISE> it may be something else: valves, bearing, wristpin slap, etc.
Q: I have an A2 VW and I hear buzzing from the rear of the car? <NOISE>
The transfer pump makes a 'wugga wugga wugga' noise when the key is turned on, and then goes away.
Q: I seem to have lost power?
- Vacuum hoses
A: Check the manual, however the manual/Bentley/dealer may sometimes be wrong. Here is some info collected over time:
Some regular Champions do not work well with VWs.
Bosch are the stock plugs, and work well in most VWs. NGK seems to be a suitable replacement for some cars.
8 Valve up to 87: WR7D? where ? = S, P
9A Engines (16V from August 1989 - present):
Bosch FR6DS - ZVP121086S
Bosch F6DTC - equivalent (see differences below).
Corrado G60: Bosch W6DPO - VW# 251 201 511A (at 16US$ EACH!). Corrado VR6: Bosch F7LC0R2 - Weird beast!
NGK ZFR6F-11 (VW now sells these as a replacement)
Champion C9MCC (OEM, manual incorrectly lists these
as Bosch plug, seem to work better
than the Bosch's)
Golf & Jetta III,
Cabrio
with ABA engine Bosch FR8DS - 101 000 044 AA, see TSB V28-94-01
Jetta GLX, Passat GLX,
SLC with AAA engine NGK BK5REKU - 101 000 035 AB, see TSB V28-94-01
(see also the Performance faq on additional sparkplug info).
Q: What does the Bosch spark plug number mean?
W = Diameter (?) W= 14 mm (?)
R = Resistor (Radio interference suppression, not vital(?))
7 = Heat Range (lower numbers = colder plugs)
D = Length (?)
T = Tri-cathode. If missing, single cathode
C = Copper Anode.
Other values, Missing = Carbon, S = Silver, P = Platinum
Q: Why is the G60 plug 15US$? What's so special about it?
Conventional:
=== <==Gap
// []
W6DPO
Gap
\/
Q: Should I use Platinum plugs? [Note, Bosch & NGK & Others make them].
[Applicable to the 1 wire systems attached to the exhaust manifolds ONLY,
the heat would ruin the catalytic converter, for those mounted on the
converter]
The sensor area needs to be heated, either by running and/or torch. Then,
you spray lots of penetrating oil into the slight crack, where it gets
sucked in by the pressure drop and by the cooling. This gets the lubricant
to the threads. (I remember hearing that drilling holes just to the threads
is a good idea). Keep doing this repeatedly and keep applying the wrench.
Sooner or later (took them 1 hr) it'll come off.
Q: What does an engine compression test tell me about the health of my engine?
This filter is located inside the 'banjo bolt' that
connects the fuel line to the fuel distributor.
This bolt is hollow, and the filter, about the size of a long pencil eraser,
is hiding inside.
Here is the procedure I used to check for and remove the filter I
found in the GTI:
A: This is a common problem on certain cars (e.g., A1 Sciroccos and
early G60 Corrados).
Check the following:
Some cars also use rubber donuts without a center piece:
191 253 147 A and they look like an "O" with a tab on one end.
The newer A2 & VR6 cars use a different hanger system, and those
hangers look more like a piece of stretched caneloni.
Q: On the electrical diagrams, do the circuit numbers have any meaning?
NOTE: Many car parts places will check out your alternator for free
or a very low cost. Sears used to do it for free in the US if you had
a DieHard battery, now they charge some nominal amount.
- Replace battery connectors with better quality ones.
(From D.J. Stern: number 1 or number 2 gauge Whitaker brass-terminal
battery cables.)
Q: My charge light does not behave as expected. What is wrong?
Engine off, ignition on, no charge indicator:
A: Check out the electrical connections, and battery (see above under charging). Also check out functioning of the solenoid. If the problems occur only with a hot engine, consider the VW solenoid package that will cut out most other drain when starting, or the heat shield package (also from VW) for the starter.
Q: What do the H1, H2...H4 designations mean?
These bulbs can be had at different strengths:
H1 55, 100, and 130 watt
H4 - 55/60, 55/100, 80/100, 80/130, 100/150 watt
Anything bigger than the 55/100 -100 H1 you must have relays or you will
fry the pins in the back of the fusebox.
Note that only the stock strength are strictly legal.
Tip: When installing new (Halogen) light bulbs in your car, make sure you DO NOT touch the glass part of the light bulb with your fingers. This is because the oil from your fingers gets so hot that it makes the bulb really hot and it explodes. [If you do, clean it off with a high concentrate alcohol: methanol, ethanol or isopropanol].
Q: What's that extra bright red light on some European cars?
Hold on that code in a very safe place!
Q: My radio never locks up if I disconnect the battery eventhough
it is claimed to be a coded radio?
To program is easy: Push down on the w-w lever, have it wipe once, bring
it up and wait until you need to wipe again, then push it down.
It'll use the same wait interval! Very clever, but not obvious.
TRANSMISSION
See also the archives G60_Xmission_Mods, faq.vw.perf, Solid_Shifter, Adjust_Linkages, TrannySwaps, clutch, tranny.lube
Q: What shift mechanisms do VWs use over the years?
See also the performance FAQ on sport clutches.
Q: How can I improve shift effort/meshing of my gears? First gear feels like
there is something blocking it?
The end of the shift lever has a ball on it that fits into a cup. The cup wears and allows the ball to ride lower and lower. Pretty soon, the ball, with shifter attatched, is riding so low that you don't need to push down to bypass the reverse lock out. All you need to do is replace the ball and cup. While you're in there, replace theshifter bushings for the feedthrough. See the Bentley manual for an excellent description. BTW, you'll most likely have to drop the exhaust to get at the parts. I have done this operation several times on various models, and can honestly say that it can be done in about 2 hours or less if you have a torch to remove the old exhaust clamps.
Also check out whether the motor/transmission mounts are ok, misalignment will cause shifting problems as will a dragging clutch. If your shifting effort is hard/stiff on cold days & grinds in 1st & 2nd, but easier once warmed up you may want to change to a synthetic transmission fluid (see performance FAQ).
Also see the G60_Xmission_Mods, faq.vw.perf, Solid_Shifter for adding a counter weight to the shift linkages for a more "solid" feel, and Adjust_Linkages.
Q: First gear grinds? <NOISE>
CVJs also fail because the CVJ grease deteriorates over time because of
heat exposure.
Here too the outer ones get the most beating because of the heat generated
by the brake disks.
Generally, you should repack the outer (& change the boots) every 60k miles. The inner ones usually last closer to 100k miles. If however you see pitting and scoring of any of the inner surfaces you may as well replace them.
Tip: [First heard from WolfSport, reported by [Borowski]) There are many times when both wheel drive shafts need to be removed (two torn boots, etc.) This is a perfect opportunity,to switch the CV joints to the opposite sides. They will then wear on different internal surfaces, extending their life.
Q: What tool should I use to remove my inner CV Joint (driveshaft-to-drive
axle flange) bolts?
According to Greg Moore: It's also the same fitting as is on the teardropstyle alloy wheel covers. [Verified: Tom Coradeschi]
Q: How do I know my front wheel bearings are shot?
See also the archive files: Repco_MetalMasters, Rear_Brakes_Tool, Solid_Shifter, Adjust_Linkages, and faq.vw.perf
Q: What brakes do VWs come with?
(Note the dates are +/- 1 yr).
Front Vented Rotor Sizes:
239 mm (9.4") A1/A2 models
256 mm (10.1")
280 mm (11" 4 hole, 6 hole for VR6) Corrados, Passats
Rear Solid Rotor Size:
226 mm (9.0")
For 14" wheels, you can go up to 10.1" rotors (and the matching calipers). For 13" wheels, 9.4" rotors is your max. If you want the 11" rotors of the corrado, then you need 15" wheels! :-)
See also Brake_Upgrades
Q: I need to change my brake pads, which should I get?
Normal driving, no problem with fade: Stock VW, or Mintex Silver pads. Repco Semi-Metallic are ok as well. Others like or prefer Wagner Pads.
Autocross:
Repco Metal Masters. Be aware that many have reported that these pads
require significant more pedal pressure, especially when cold.
Advantages: Fade resistant, less brake dust, no squeal.
Q: Is it easy to change pads/shoes?
Tip: When changing the rotors, make sure you put a bundle of anti-seize on
the inside of the new rotors so they do not get stuck to the hub.
Also remove as much rust and gunk so that the rotors seat well.
I had to take mine off the hard way: Heat until red, cool with cold water,
hammer and use a pry bar.
Also make sure you antiseize the screw that holds the rotor in place. If
the head is messed up you can try reslotting, but chances are it won't help
either.
If the screw head is messed up be extremely careful with those easy-offs/
screw or tap extractors.
When they break, you cannot get them out.
Andy's recommendation is to drill out the screw with the right diameter
drill instead, rethread, and put in a new screw of a larger diameter. You
don't want to make the hole too big either, though you could use a threadlocker
to come back to the original size.
Note that that screw is not vital! It only holds the rotor temporarily in
place until the wheel bolts torque the rim/rotor/hub sandwich together.
Q: I hear a "clunk" each time I brake/start? <NOISE>
>>>>VOLUNTEERS>>>>?????
Needed: diagnosing problems
MAINTENANCE
One of the best ways to keep your car alive is to perform periodic
maintenance.
Here is some data that applies mostly to the newer A2 cars.
This data came from the VW manuals, Bosch dealer, and New Dimensions.
New Car
Do not change the oil until after the recommended initial 7500 miles.
Apparently VW uses a special oil to break in the car. Do check the oil
level on new cars frequently.
Oil Change
It's a religious issue. The following seems to work:
Mineral Oils: every 3000 miles or 5000 kms or 6 months
Synthetics: every 7500 miles or 12000 kms or 12 (?) months
Change oilfilter at the same time
Fuel Filter (FI cars)
Every 60 k miles (eventhough VW now claims it's not needed)
OxySensor
Older A2s with Non heated sensors: 30k miles
Newer A2s with heated sensors: 60k miles
Do NOT neglect this. You will NOT be saving money because if the
sensor goes bad it will quickly take your catalytic converter with it.
And those are EXPENSIVE!
Plugs
Newer A2s: Every 30 k miles
I often check them (gap) and clean them every 15k miles
Transmission Fluid
Synthetic Fluid: replace every 90k miles
CVJoints
Repack:
Coolant
Every two years or when it turns murky
Brake Fluid
Renew every two years
Purge every year
Drive Belt
8V: 100 k miles, but safer at 75k miles
16V/A1 Euro GTI: 50 k miles
Belts
Every 60 k miles. Put old ones in trunk.
Coolant hoses
Unclear, but they seem to last about 100-200 k miles.
If you see one go, replace them all because you'll never remember
which was changed when.
TIRES/RIMS/SUSPENSION
NOTE: Most tire/rim/suspension questions have been moved to the performance FAQ. The reason for this is that buying stock tires/rims/shocks is often more expensive than buying a better product.
Q: How do I know whether my shocks are worn out?
Also suspect your shock if you hear an excessive amount of swishing.<NOISE>
That's cavitation (local boiling of oil) which usually accelerates wear.
"Gas" shocks contain a chamber of pressurized gas that keeps the oil under
pressure and prevents cavitation, increasing damping capabilities and
reducing wear.
For the front "shocks" you have two choices for replacement: You can either
buy an entirely new strut (which is the whole assembly, usually sold in
combination with springs) or replace the shock insert in your existing
strut (cheaper, more work). Most of the time you replace the insert.
The rear shocks are replaced as a whole, and fairly easy to do yourself.
Note that the fronts tend to wear out long before the rears.
Note, if you replace the front shocks you may want to consider replacing
the upper strut bearings.
Q: How do I know upper strut bearings are worn?
- Rubber gets stressed out: They'll stick more than ~1.5 cm above the shock
towers
(Mark Shaw) says something similar: If I can get the tips of my fingers between the top plate and the housing with the vehicle standing on a level surface, then the strut bearing has seen enough abuse. This was passed on to me by a friend who works at the VW Proving Grounds south of Phoenix. He also recommends that you use the ones with the "A" suffix on the part number ([jan] note many aftermarket places sell heavy duty versions of these, probably those with an "A")
I do not change them unless the strut cartridges are also weak. Experience has shown me that in all cases strut bearings should be replaced when the strut cartridges are replaced.
Note also that (Norm Heckman): A drop of 3/4" was given as a limit for auto safety inspection rejection in N.Y. state. (drop = after you jack up the car).
Q: What is the proper tire inflation for my car? Should I use the number printed on the side of the car?
When the tires are new, measure the profile depth on the sides and in the center of the tire, for all tires. Measure again after you have driven couple thousand miles/kms. The wear should be more or less even accross the entire tire width, with a bit more wear on the front than the rear tires (FWD cars!). This naturally assumes that your alignment is correct.
If you find that the centers of the tires are wearing more, decrease
pressure, if you find they are wearing less, increase pressure
(radial tires, bias plies behave differently).
If you find that the side of the tires are wearing uneven
(or see other oddities), you may need an alignment.
(See also the alignment archives on this).
Generally if you load up your car with alot of weight, it's recommended
to increase your tire pressures.
Similarly, if you are planning to drive at high speeds for a longer
period of time, increase the pressure.
This will reduce tire flex, and hence will produce less heat build up.
Also keep in mind that underinflation is one of the worst things
you can do to a tire for that very reason.
Higher tire pressures are also recommended to reduce the chance of
rim damage with softer rims (e.g., 1990 Corrados, some 16V rims).
The number printed on the side of the tire is merely the maximum inflation pressure for that tire, and is not meant to indicate the inflation pressure for your car.
For performance driving see the performance faq.
Q: What shocks are interchangeable between cars?
A1 Models = 75-88 Scirocco 75-84 Rabbit (Golf 1) 80-92 Cabrio
80-83 Pickup (front only) 80-84 Jetta 1
know as A1 suspension design most US models use
internal threaded struts ( can swap for external)
all other use the same inserts and strut bearings
Springs vary according to models
A2 Models 85-92 Golf and Jetta 2 93- Golf and Jetta 3
slight
mods needed to A3 to use A2 struts as all A3 and some
late A2 have sealed (throw away) struts housings.
Springs vary
Others Corrado G60 models can use A2 shocks in the rear
but front are same dimensions but use a larger shaft
and are designed for higher weight load.
Strut housings are similar Strut bearings look the same
But I believe the Corrado ones are stronger. We now
offer HD strut bearings (VR6 Golf) for all the A2 style
Q: What do all those numbers mean on my tire.
Q: My door sags, how can I straighten it?
[From Jim Macklow] I've had success with my wife's Rabbit by doing the following: Open door, then jack up door with floor jack, making sure the door is closed as far as possible.
Q: How do I eliminate all the rattles, squeaks and buzzes in my car? <NOISE>
Tip: Start with cleaning the inside and outside of the car, and remove all the coins and pens stuck in the seat rails. Then take a screw/nut driver and fasten all accessible interior screws and bolts. If a particular screw/bolt loosens frequently, use Loctite (tm). The bolt that holds the seat back adjustment knob is notorious for loosening and rattling. Have someone drive around while you go around and isolate where all the noise comes from.
Another weird one that helps with some rattles and groans is to install a lower stress bar on A-1 cars that do not have one, and apparently an upper shock tower stress bar on all others (haven't tried this yet, but Aaron @ APS claims that it helps surprisingly well).
Q: Something in my dash rattles? <NOISE>
A tip from (Tim Hogard): Tighten the the two nuts that hold the dash in that are on the engine side of the firewall.
Q: My doors/hatch/vinyl squeak over bumpy roads, especially when cold? <NOISE>
Start with Si-spray. It usually cures the noise temporarily, but at least you will be able to identify where the noise is coming from.
For a more permanent sway-bar bushing noise solution, especially
if you have an aftermarket sway bar with polyurethane bushings:
try the following:
The same tricks can be used for other rubber based suspension components (e.g., A-arm bushings).
Q: Something in my door rattles? <NOISE>
Wax at least twice a year, with a good brand of wax. Wax only after the car
has been thoroughly washed. Follow the directions of the product and either
use clean rags or cotton wool to apply wax.
Why wax? It puts a protective layer over your paint, and replenishes lost
oils.
Hard waxes (e.g., Carnuba based waxes) tend to last longer but require a
lot of work.
[Note: Latest word on this is that these waxes contain
hardly any Carnuba any more]
See what the local body shop uses (the one I visit use Meguire's
professional line of products, but it's by no means the only wax. I like it
as well (Hi Tech Yellow Wax #26), used to use RainDance wax but stopped
because it is rumored to be too abrasive, hated Nu-Finish.
The ultimate is Zymol, 800-999-5563, but it costs a lot! Others have
had good results with Mother's.)
Wax horizontal surfaces more frequently (hood, roof).
If rain does not bead up and slide off the car, it's time to rewax.
Polish your car sparingly, e.g., if you want to get rid of swirls,
scratches or an oxidized layer of paint.
Polishes contain fine grit and therefore are rather abrasive.
You can get polishes with different grades of grit #2, e.g., see Meguire's
line of polishers: Swirl Remover #9 (to be used last),
Fine Cut Cleaner #2 (leaves a dull finish, removes small scratches), etc.
The coarsest version of a polish is a rubbing compound.
It will not leave a shine, and works just like a piece of sand paper.
It is mainly used to even out portions that were repainted.
Note that you can buy 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper which in some
cases is actually finer than some rubbing compounds.
They may come in handy when you are trying to smooth a repainted scratch.
Note that many "waxes" contain both detergents and polishing compounds. Some work quite well (e.g., DuPont's Rain Dance) but some find it too abrasive for frequent use. That's why it's better to use non-abrasive waxes, and only polish when you need it.
Glazing compounds are a bit like wax: they replenish lost chemicals in the paint, but the protective layer they provide does not last very long (e.g., Meguire's Show Car Glaze #7). For a deep shine I often first use a glaze then a carnuba wax. I have tried some of the supposed once a year hi-tech "coverings" but was rather underwhelmed by the result.
To get the wax off the black trim, use some detergent or Simple Green & a toothbrush. Then apply a vinyl/rubber conditioner on all rubber components. It'll slow the ageing process a bit and restore the color of the component (see below for product listing).
To get the rims clean is a different matter, especially the alloy rims.
VW's product is supposedly quite good, I would avoid most others as they
contain extremely caustic (i.e., HF) acids. I haven't found the "best"
formula as yet... I use Simple Green, dishwashing detergent and some
polishing compound.
To make your life easier, wax your rims. It'll also reduce pitting (which
is caused by a galvanic action between the hot brake metal particles and
your alloy). BTW, BBS rims are nice but a chore to clean.
On the tires use one of the rubber/vinyl conditioner or one of
products made specifically made for tires. They are usually sold in cans
(Tire Shine), but I find it hard not to overspray all over the place (&
that stuff leaves marks on the floor).
To get windows real clean, wash with a strong detergent, perhaps followed
by some alcohol. Then use Windex or similar product and dry most with
rag/chamois and follow with a piece of newspaper paper. Works amazingly
well.
A product like Rain-X also cleans the windows real well as a side effect.
Some have complained that Rain-X leaves a hazy film (can be buffed out with
a *very* clean rag). Rain-X ("invisible windshield wipers") work quite well
on some windshields but only last a couple 1000 kms, or about a month
and a half.
Inside the car I just use some light detergent and water to clean
things. For the vinyl dash and other vinyl interior components I now
use (again) Meguire's #40 spray. It's similar in function to products
like Clear Guard and Armor All except it's not so greasy, slippery
and smells better.
Carpets and seats you just vacuum. It's not a bad idea to treat cloth
seats and carpets with protective products like Scotch Guard.
This is easy to do yourself and often sold at an enormous cost with
new cars.
Q: What are the best vinyl/rubber cleaners/enhancers/replenishers?
Currently recommended products:
Clear Guard, Black Again, Meguiar #42, Harly Tire-Nu or Lexol Vinylex.
Others have reported favorable (better) results with Turtle Wax's Black
Chrome product for black bumpers and Westley's Black Magic.
Here is a writeup sent to me by JBratek@aol.com from Larry Reynolds of Car Care Specialties, Inc, Saddle Brook, NJ, 201-796-8300, carcaresp@aol.com during a recent PCA workshop covering concour tips for Porsche owners:
There are two main degrading agents that attack tires. They are UV light waves and ozone. Both of these attack the long hydrocarbon chains of the rubber and by breaking these bonds, shorten the molecules with resulting loss of elasticity and other problems. Tire manufacturers add two primary sacraficial protectants to the rubber. To protect against UV, they add carbon black. This is why tires don't come in designer colors to match your paint. The carbon black will turn white/gray as it absorbs the UV and dissipates the energy as heat. Thus the basis of rubber parts turning gray as they age. To protect against ozone, tire manufacturers add a wax-based sacraficial protectant. The ozone attacks the wax and depletes it. As the tire rolls, additional wax is forced to the surface of the tire. This is referred to as "blooming". This blooming refreshes the surface wax protectant. A tire that has not been flexed will have the wax depleted by the ozone and thus begin to degrade and suffer "dry rot". The silicone oil in Armour All et Al may actually dissolve the wax and be the cause of premature tire sidewall cracking/failure. In conclusion, any tire dressing should contain a UV protectant to bolster the efforts of the carbon black and not contain any silicone.
Q: How do I clean my rims and get rid of that nasty brake dust?
- The hard way: toothbrush, soap, simple green, lost of time, then wax
Others that work, but I have no idea how harsh they are:
Westley's Wheel Magic, ArmorAll Quicksilver, Busch Wheel Cleaner,
Turtle Wax Wheel Cleaner for Mag Wheels
Q: How do I touch up little nicks and chips?
Clean off the immediate area with rubbing alcohol. If there is rust in the chip, glue a small piece of fine sandpaper to a pencil eraser and rotate this in the chip until all of the rust is sanded off. [Jan: I just fold either 220 or 400 grit sand paper and use the edge to scrub the rust off. If I see pitting, I use Naval Jelly (Phosphoric Acid) to reduce the remaining rust]
I think that he used a primer first and then the touch-up paint but I don't
recall that well.
[Jan: Primer is a good idea because it helps evening out the pit
that you created. I use Galvanizing primer, sold under different brands
such as Rustoleum. It's more rust resistant. After it dries I use
400 or higher grid sandpaper to level the primer out].
He used the end of a match (matchbook type (cardboard)) to apply the paint because the brush was usually too clumsy. [Jan: Use what ever makes sense. QTips, small brushes, the end of a bamboo BBQ squewer. For larger areas, I use a spray can directly, after covering the stuff I don't want to paint.]
Fill the chip as much as possible letting the paint dry between coats until it is flush with the old paint. Let it all dry thoroughly and then polish the car (area).
Q: How does paintless dent removal work?
Someone posted on r.a.driving, that the process is actually an old one that's been around since the 50`s. Anyway, he went on to say that this process is used on airplanes to remove hail dents. The poster said that the metal skin of the plane was allowed to heat-up, or was heated, then dry-ice was applied to the area. Something to do with the expanding and contracting properties of metals?
Jan: I had them take out a couple dents in my car, and all they did (in my case) is use a set of blunt tools to massage the dents of the inside panels out.
Q: I need to repaint part of my car. What should I look for in a body shop?
The first thing I look for is the type of paint they use. VWs are painted with a Urethane Paint by Hoechst or Glazurit, which is about as high quality as you can get [BMW & M-B use the same type]. I usually try to stick close to the factory brand of paint because the pigment formulation is at least similar eventhough the solvents are not (the body shop cannot bake the entire car as the factory does). Paint fades, but having roughly the same pigment formulation will allow the repainted parts fade in roughly the same way.
All body shops have to mix the paint to match your color, so you will not find any containers that say Alpine Weiss L90E and expect it to match. VW buys paint in bulk, and each batch differs slightly in color eventhough it may have the same color code.
Q: How do I fix rubber components such a bumpers and spoilers?
I [Jan] have used Shoe Goo at times to fix portion of my chin spoiler. Works rather well.
Q: I cracked my windshield, what should I do?
If the windshield starts cracking, you could try to drill a hole to stop the crack with a tungsten carbide drill bit, bit in all likelyhood it's not going to do much good. You still need a new windshield.
I personally do not like the majority of aftermarket windshields.
They are either weaker (crack much quicker), show distortions, introduce
more wind noise, cause water leakage and therefore
I usually get the windshield at VW or order the OEM windshield
(Securit). They are more but I think they work better and seem to
hold up better to stone chips.
You may have to fight it with your insurance co though. I tell them
that the aftermarket windshields are not E2 certified and therefore
do not meet OEM specs.
The windshield on older VWs are just held in place with the rubber
molding, while the newer VWs have bonded windshields with a substantial
higher installation cost.
As always, you should replace *ALL* old seals when replacing a windshield,
it's worth the extra cost to avoid leaks and rust.
Look for a reputable place to install the
windshield because in the newer cars the windshield is part of the
structural integrety of the car.
Some of the mass market and cheaper place DO NOT BOND THE WINDSHIELD
ADEQUATELY. All they use is Butyl Tape, which stays soft and will
pop out the windshield in the event of a roll-over. Windshields Of America
lost a multimillion dollar law suit in Colorado because of this
(I mention them because I am EXTREMELY dissatisfied with them as well:
It took them 4 tries to get it right, and I am not even sure they
used anything but butyl tape).
According to the place I now go to (I loose one windshield every couple
years) recommends P255FC Urethane for bonding the windshield.
It becomes very rigid and you cannot prick it with a pin after it cures,
while butil tapes feels soft and goo-y.
Q: My seat material has ripped, how do I fix it? This is mostly dedicated
to those with 85-87 GTIs. :-<
Ok, here's two different versions of fixit solutions: #1 find a GTI with the same seats and get the passenger's seat $35 around my parts for a GOOD one with NO TEARS or Wear. Then disassemble it and re-cover your driver's seat with its parts. it's a little more complicated than just taking one out and swapping the other in as things like the seat belt and slider rails aren't exactly the same. (they are Really close, but not the same when you consider things like the seat belt mount point...) #2 Take the entire seat apart and recover it in a BETTER material. I've been running my butt across a material called Sunbrella (designed for use as boat cushion/boat top material). At first, it didn't seem as comfy as the original, but then again the other original wore out and has since been covered to match. Mine are done in black which ought to absorb as much of the scorching South Florida sun as anything, yet they are never hot like vinyl even when I have the glass sunroof removed at noon. I would hate to think what an upholstery shop would have charged to do the work my mom did re-covering my 2 fromt seats because this fabric is VERY un forgiving when you start stretching it over the frame. There were a few stitches that mom had to dismantle and re-sew to get to fit just right, but everyone who looks into my interior comments on my seats. (the rear seat is still done in the original fabric which is now starting to show its age 12+ years)
Q: How do I treat my leather interior?
Q: When my Corrado spoiler retracts, it squeaks. What do I do? <NOISE>
Note that the filters that APS used to sell were made by Climismann (sp?); they are now selling units made by Bosch and make the claim that they "work much better." [Hmmmmm.... Ed.]
>>>> SUGGESTIONS/COMMENTS/CORRECTIONS? send e-mail to above address
Contributors (not exhaustive):
Note: Quoted contributions imply possible conflicting pieces of advise
with other contributors.
jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
mark@wdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
dilmore@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
rgolen@UMASSD.EDU (Ric Golen)
cdg@sei.cmu.edu (Craig Gary)
borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
tomh@wes.on.ca (\tom haapanen)
teek@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca (Prateek Dwivedi)
gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (ANdy)
eric@quantum.qnx.com (Eric Johnson)
dans@ans.net (Dan Simoes)
dilmore@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
crawford@fido.econ.arizona.edu (David Crawford)
sirota@greenwich.com (Mark Sirota)
blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
scottz@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Scott Zeller)
christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
neves@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K)
rkast2+@unixd.cis.pitt.edu (Rajiv K. Agrawala)
wolfsond@cse.fau.edu (Dan)
borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
jjmacklo@infonode.ingr.com (Jim Macklow)
ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
ke05@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (KIRBY ERLANDSEN)
mhembruc@tsegw.tse.com (Mattias Hembruch)
ptong12@ursa.calvin.edu (Peter Tong)
morton@quack.kfu.com (Brent Morton)
chan@seattleu.edu (Anthony)
gjm@macsch.com (Greg Moore)
thogard@wrdis01.robins.af.mil (Cont Tim Hogard)
mshearer@math.ucla.edu (Michael Shearer)
squiec@vccnw04.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
jdouglas@mitre.org (Jason Douglas)
jay.mitchell@the-matrix.com (Jay Mitchell)
pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
scornelius@ws11.iac.honeywell.com (Steve Cornelius)
lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Lito Lucena)
cfm@cbnews.cb.att.com (conrad.f.matter)
chneide@world.std.com (Eric G Schneider)
Volney.Spalding@Corp.Sun.COM (Volney Spalding)
rbriber@eng.umd.edu (Robert M. Briber)
frank.sikernitsky@mail.trincoll.edu (The Catt)
tcora@Pica.Army.Mil (Tom Coradeschi)
eschwa@csn.org (Emerson Schwartzkopf)
cremelie@ibmsp.elis.rug.ac.be (Nick Cremelie)
seibed@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Edward Seibert)
lsharkey@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Sharkman)
Eric Lee Green elg@usl.edu
Tom Huppi thuppi@delphi.com
Greg Welch, welchg@cs.unc.edu
scornelius@server2.iac.honeywell.com (Steve Cornelius)
jdr40@juts.ccc.amdahl.com (John Ritter)
Craig D. Gary" <cg2h+@andrew.cmu.edu>
Mark (mbernier@aol.com)
garrick@cfd19.eng.buffalo.edu (Sean)
gsdiseth@efn.org (Gregor)
pmd11@phy.cam.ac.uk (Peter Dickson)
MHC@ussu.Ciba.Com (Michael Chin)
"Daniel J. Stern" <dastern@gladstone.uoregon.edu>
vyeung@bmerha11.bnr.ca (Vincent Yeung)
John Leipsic <johnny5@netcom.com>
gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Charlie Crutchfield
JBratek@aol.com
jtracey@pts.mot.com (James Tracey)
RHOVNANI@STDNTMAIL.LMU.EDU (RAFFI HOVNANIAN)
zrxh0370@baracke.rus.uni-stuttgart.de (Ulli Horlacher)
dlgoodri@iastate.edu (Dennis L Goodrich)
JBratek@aol.com
Use any info in this posting at your OWN risk.
This is public information and should not be dissiminated
for profit.
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