Information about Rebuilding Your G-Lader

Submitted By: Silver G60

I had mine re-built for about $475.00 canadian. This included all the maintanence such as belts ands seals etc.. If you are interested, you can call my loyal shop European Speed Sports @ 905-850-7544 in Ontario Canada. He sends the unit to a turbocharger re-buider that he works a lot with. Of course he is not an "authorized" G-charger re-builder, but it's better than MotorTechnik's quote of $800.00.

Do It Yourself Rebuild (Not for the faint of mechanical skill)

I guess the hardest part is to obtain the parts. The company which manufactures the original G60 parts is Jung GmbH in Germany. They have contacted us recently and informed us that they do not sell the parts to ANYONE but Volkswagen AG. They have asked us to remove their address and part number information. Also recently, I have been informed by G60 Performance Products that they are starting to carry the G60 rebuild kits. I don't know if they are the same ones or different than Jung's.

G60 Performance Products
26517 Highland Ave.
Kent, WA 98032
USA

Here's a list of G60 parts (with Jung part numbers removed as requested by them). Apparently someone originally obtained them from Jung.

English translation (feel free to correct us!):

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REPLACEMENT PART SIZE PART NO. PRICE
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CHAMBER HOUSING I:
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Circlip D 35
Ball-bearing D 52
Circlip D 52
Seal D 52
Oil centrifuge ring
Seal D 45
Tooth belt
Waveform spring (2x per charger)
Sealing strip (2x per charger)
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CHAMBER HOUSING II:
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Cylinder-roller-bearing D 35
Circlip D 35
Seal D 35
Waveform spring (2x per charger)
Sealing strip (2x per charger)
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DISPLACER:
Circlip (2x per charger) D 42
Sealing strip (4x per charger)
Seal (2x per charger)
Zylinder-roller-bearing
Circlip D 20
----------------------------------------------------------------- BTW: SIZE means diameter in mm!

I guess, the most important parts are the sealing strips in both chamber housings and in the displacer. They're made of Teflon, that's why they are expensive. All the other parts are very special, too, e.g. the seals are made of vyton (standard is nbr) and the bearings are made with lower tolerances compared to ordinary ones.

You also need sealing cream LOCTITE 573, Art.-Nr. 57341 (35 DM) for sealing the chamber housing while assembling. Useful is some grease for fixing the sealing strips and some sealing-cream-remover, to get the old sealing cream off the housing.

Directions To Rebuild Your G-Lader
BTW a while back it wasn't how difficult it was to rebuild G-laders it was how difficult to buy the parts. Now that parts are readily available I think we'll see more and more people rebuilding G-laders.

AMEN!!! now that I've taken apart my G-lader, I'm kicking myself for not doing it BEFORE it blew up... there's nothing to it!!!! If only I'd known, I would have rebuilt it myself, especially since I've been in contact with TEC for like a year AND I've had all the part #'s to order rebuild parts... Ugh.

Anywho, the belt is easy to change, just have to remove your pulley and it slips right off. I'd mark each cogs' position against the case with white-out first to make sure the timing remains correct.

To take apart the G-lader, there are 6 or 7 bolts, all needing a 6mm Allen wrench. The case splits open w/o much effort, surprisingly enough there is no gasket between the hemispheres of the case (finely machined).

To remove the impellor and eccentric shaft, you need a pair of circlip pliers to remove the circlips neatly. With the circlip removed, the innards pop right out. The seals are all removable and replaceable by hand, they just fit in the grooves along the "snailshell" airways and impellor.

The bearings can be removed by hand if you don't mind getting lots of oil under your fingernails, otherwise a small bearing puller works well. That's all folks, unless you want to go nuts and start honing various parts of the Glader. All in all, an OEM basic rebuild probably takes an hour first time out, maybe a half hour for an experienced rebuilder. (not counting time to clean everything in a solvent tank before rebuilding of course)

Brendan Prout
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Well, after witnessing my first and hopefully last G-lader blow up in front of me, here are some very important tips.

1. Change your cog belt often!! Don't let it deteriorate and dry-rot, especially with running a smaller pully. We grenaded a supercharger this weekend when the cog belt snapped, it looked really cool, shrapnel flying out of the engine bay. We inspected the belt, and it looked good, but evidentally it was dry-rotted and ..snap!
2. Never stand in front of the car w/ the hood up while revving the engine, luckily I was watching my friend's MFA when it grenaded.
3. If you snap that weak ass oil line banjo screw either on the Supercharger or on the block, just take any bolt off a cis or cis-e fuel distributor and use it. We drilled the hole out a bit because the diameter is smaller, but in a pinch on Saturday night when you need to drive it home or get it to the dealership Monday to buy a proper replacement bolt..
4. Replacing the seals in your supercharger is PATHETICALLY easy, we busted it apart and there's really nothing complicated to the supercharger at all.


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