Back
Menu Page
This is a small collection of letters concerning Aktiv issues. Another archive can
be found at Jan Vandenbrande's Stereo Archive. For a great FAQ on VW issues in general
see Jan's FAQ Archive.
(you can use the "find" button on your web browser to find the info you want)
Q: I'm confused as to the difference between parallel wiring and series wiring. I know one is wire-to-speaker-to-speaker and the other involves splitting the channels into a Y and running separate wires to each speaker. I plan to do the latter, is that preferable?
A: Mark Hassman wrote:
Parallel vs. serial... Serial -->wire(+)-speaker_a(+)-speaker_a(-)-speaker_b(+)-speaker_b(-)-wire(-) parallel -->wire(+)-speaker(+)-speaker(+) & wire(-)-speaker(-)-speaker(-) Ohms law --> Voltage=Current x Resistance Power .. ie - wattage (watt=current x voltage). Serial resistance --> sum of all values. I forget the equation for parallel resistance (sum/product??), but w/2 resistors (speakers) of same values in parallel the resistance is half of one.
From you're deck -- the wattage is fixed (rms&max) and there's a munimum impediance (ohm) it's capable of pushing (can't go any lower) <-- it's usually around 3.8ohms. there's a little room to play for thermal change and manufacturing irregularities, and other odd stuff. For example.. If you take the left door speaker (4ohms) and the left dash speaker (4ohms), wire them in parallel.. you end up with 2ohms that the deck has to push. Most decks commit suicide when run like this for long periods. I've seen many burnt .. scratch that .. charcoaled amplifier sections inside decks. Very few can do it reliably. Check the manual, maybe yours is one. Without going with an additional amp and still running 6 speakers, the other option is wire 2 sets in series. This will give the deck an 8ohm load to push. The only problem is the wattage drops. Check out Ohms law above -- If voltage stays the same (12V car), and the impedance increases, then the current must drop. If the deck puts 15Wrms into 4ohms. It will put out ~10Wrms into 8ohms. That's a simplistic example, but still valid.
Q: I installed an Eclipse head unit, in my '92 Corrado. It sounds a lot better then it did before. They didn't do any rewiring, they got an adaptor that ran the head unit through the AKTIV system. The only problem now is that I am getting some electrical noise. Mainly when I accelerate, or press pause. Why? A: That's what happens when an aftermarket unit is installed with the AKTIV system still intact. Many others complain about the buzz too. It's because the aftermarket head unit is sending too much signal to the AKTIV amps. Q: I am thinking of replacing the rear speakers with the Eclipse 8462E's you talked about because the stock speakers are crap. Does replacing the rear speakers really make the stock stereo sound much better? A: The sound will be better and you will hear a greater range of your music, but you are still stuck with the same power from the Aktiv amps. Before I removed my AKTIV I replaced those back speakers with the Eclipses and it made a lot of difference in bass and treble response at low to mid volumes, but still distorted at high volumes due to the low power of the AKTIV amps. Also, should I bypass the AKTIV system and rewire the speakers, or will it sound better the way I have it now, going through the amps? Definitely will sound better with the rewired speakers-ESPECIALLY with a high quality head unit like an Eclipse! Right now, the sound can't be any better than the original Heidelberg since it uses the same amps. Do the rewire, you won't be sorry. One other option I have is to put some component speakers in the front. Two tweeters, and two cones for the door. Should I just keep the front speakers, and replace the rears? Lastly, my Eclipse dealer said the had the Eclipse 4X6's, but not the "E" model. Should I try to find the elsewhere? I'd do the rewire and rear Eclipses first before upgrading the front speakers. Then you could toss those AKTIV amps and use some good 5 1/4 midranges instead of the 4" that the AKTIV amps hold. My dealer didn't have the E model in stock either, he had to order them. Ask him to order Eclipse model 8462E. This and the rewire and you will be amazed at the sound difference. Good luck and feel free to ask more questions. Jay Karolyi AKTIV Webmaster
Q: How Do I add a CD changer to my '93 and later VW Premium system (non-Aktiv), and what brand matches my stock head unit?
A: Jeff Bernhard wrote:
This is not a CD Changer that communicates with the head unit over the air waves. It is a direct cable connection into the stock VW head unit allowing you to use the VW head unit to control the Changer. I did it!!! I found a CD Changer that will plug directly into the stock Heidelberg/Panasonic radio. The way it works is as follows: 1. Your VW radio must have CD Changer control already on it. 2. CD Changer control was available for Corrados late '93 and up. 3. Early '93 and earlier can't plug directly into a CD Changer. Have to get a new head unit. 4. The Panasonic 6 Disk CD Changer is the only one that will work with the stock Heidelberg/Panasonic radio. 5. The aftermarket Panasonic sells for $299 while the VW dealer sells it for $508!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!(sheesh!) 6. If your late '93 and up Heidelberg radio was made in Mexico, you get Panasonic. If the head unit was made in Germany, you get the Clarion. 7. INTERESTING POINT!!!::: VW cars made GERMANY used a Mexican built Panasonic unit. VW cars made in MEXICO get a GERMAN built Clarion. 8. REMEMBER... Your stock radio needs to have CD CHANGER CONTROL already on it.
Q: I have 92 VR6 and would like to replace the stereo. Read your article and it answered a lot of questions. How do I get at the dash speakers??
A: Glad I could be of help. The front speaker covers are tricky to remove. Unless you want to replace them, I wouldn't bother them. I was curious as to their condition so I pried my covers off.
The only way to get them off without ruining your dash is to open the door and put the tip of a flat screwdriver in the cornerby the A-pillar where the dash ends. Once you get that corner up you can pull on it until it comes off. Be VERY careful anytime the screwdriver touches the dash or you will dent or tear the padding.
Jay
Q: What is a good suggestion for dash speaker replacements that drop right in?
A: Dean Futrell wrote:
The best by far, hands down, are MB Quart 100.3KX's. The speakers rock, I'm talking show winning sound from a 4'' and they fit in the dash with no mods. These coupled with some good 5.5 in the doors and you're there. The 100.3's cost two bills but believe me they are worth it. I strongly reccomend them and all MB Quart speakers.
Q: How can I code the Heidelberg head unit if I don't know the factory set code?
A: Dan Martensen wrote: Push in the mfa button on the wiper switch (I'm talking about the G60's so if it doesn't work on the vr6's C'est la vie!). Anyway hold the button in and turn the car on enough to have all the stuff on....NOT THE WHOLE CAR (ENGINE). Leave your finger on the button the whole time and keep it for 10 seconds. Turn the power off ...DON"T TAKE THE KEY OUT. Now turn the car completely on...you will see some different numbers than usual on the mfa screen. There will be in no specific order...Boost guage readings, code for computer chip, code for Heidelberg Head Unit...and some other stuff. The # is 4 digits for the stereo, punch them in....duh. THE MFA THING IS NOT PERMANENT DON'T WORRY you have to do the whole deal over again.
| Back
Menu Page |
|
|
Help Support the CCA by:
|
|
|
|
The Corrado Club of America, Inc. is a nonprofit group run entirely by volunteers. ISP support provided by Netsville. |
||